Despite dermatologists describing retinol as a skin-care star, it can come with an unpleasant side effect: retinol burn. Also known as retinol irritation, it's essentially what happens when your face can't tolerate the powerful ingredient and subsequently devolves into a flaky, peeling, red mess.
Signs of an allergic reaction, like rash; hives; itching; red, swollen, blistered, or peeling skin with or without fever; wheezing; tightness in the chest or throat; trouble breathing, swallowing, or talking; unusual hoarseness; or swelling of the mouth, face, lips, tongue, or throat.
First-time retinol users have reported irritation, including redness, dryness, and peeling. If you use too high a strength or apply retinol more frequently than you should, you may experience further irritation, like itchiness and scaly patches.
“If you're overusing your retinol, or if you're using a retinol that's too strong for you, it can lead to peeling, irritation, and excessive dryness, which may have led to retinol's association with skin thinning,” she says.
If you've had an adverse reaction to retinol before, it's important to give your skin a break—but don't completely eliminate the ingredient. When it's time to reintroduce retinol into your routine, consider starting with a lower-strength product and building up the potency (and your tolerance) gradually over time.
Remember, that 'retinoid uglies' are likely to be temporary, and it will take time before you see the end result. You have three skin layers—the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Your epidermis is your visible layer, and renews approximately every 28 days.
Skin purging happens when new ingredients, like retinol, promote increased cell turnover, which causes clogging and worsening breakouts. This is particularly the case as oil and debris that is trapped deeper underneath the skin comes to the surface.
For peeling skin related to retinoids, it is important to keep your skin moisturized and hydrated. Externally, utilizing a thick emollient over the retinoid will help with peeling skin. Emollients are essentially moisturizers that soothe and soften the skin, treating dry and peeling or flaky skin.
Skin color changes are normal with retinol. Instead of trying to completely control or hide the redness in your face, give it a few days to even out on its own. Try to wear minimal beauty products during this phase, and feel free to take a day or two break from using retinol.
The retinol uglies occur as the vitamin A derivative sets to work speeding up your cell turnover “allowing for the faster progression of the cells through the skin, and the natural sloughing away of the dead top layer,” explains Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, medical director at Adonia Medical Clinic.
Skin purging typically looks like tiny red bumps on the skin that are painful to touch. They are often accompanied by whiteheads or blackheads. It can also cause your skin to become flaky. The flare ups caused by purging have a shorter lifespan than a breakout.
Purging is slightly different, appearing on the skin mostly as blackheads or small skin-coloured bumps just under the surface of the skin. But it is also possible for purging to cause similar spots to a breakout, too.
How long does retinol burn last? Most sources claim it can take a week to normalise and it will usually clear up on its own and believe it or not, this can be a perfectly normal side effect. So here we are 6 days later.
You might also get more breakouts once you start using retinoids. Keep calm and stick with it. “It's common to see acne get worse before it gets better, as the retinoids can cause a mass 'purge,'” says Robinson. Basically, as skin cell turnover increases, new clogs rise to the top.
The purge phase usually lasts for two to six weeks. But, it can vary depending on the skin. It can range from minor pimples to cystic acne, as well as dryness, redness, and peeling. Also, it is important to remember that retinol isn't the direct cause of acne.
There are definitely side effects with both retinols and retinoids, but I want to emphasize that they're temporary, lasting around three to four weeks. The most common side effects I see with patients are redness, dry and scaly skin and itching or burning.
Pending potency, OTC retinol can take up to six months to see results." That's not to say you won't see any benefits upon the first few uses. Nussbaum explains that in the short term, the benefits are that your skin will be exfoliated of dead skin cells and your pores will be unclogged.
Your skin may react viscerally to retinoids and face acids
You may experience skin purging from exfoliating acids, too. “Certain facials that involve a chemical peel component may also trigger this reaction,” Mraz Robinson says, “because again, it's all about a reaction in response to an accelerated exfoliation.”
Skin purging can last for anything between a few weeks to a few months. It is a faster paced cell turnover process. Cells are replaced in about four weeks in an adult around 30 years of age. As we get older, the cycle takes longer.
Purging is a sign that the product is working and you should continue with the treatment as prescribed. After a few weeks of purging, your skin and acne will have noticeably improved. Breaking out is when your skin is reacting because it is sensitive to something in the new product.
Additionally, if you experience any itchiness, redness, burning or pain immediately after applying a new product, these are clear signs you're experiencing an allergic reaction and it's best to wash it off carefully and stop using it altogether.
What does it look like? Distinct, acne-like bumps may be purging. However, if you're noticing welts, diffuse redness, or anything resembling a rash, stop what you're doing. Inflammation is a sign of reaction and generally appears as all-over redness rather than individual, blemish-like spots.
How to treat skin purging. “If the skin barrier is compromised when you see purging then start ingredients which help with barrier repair, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid in a non-comedogenic formulation. If you are using a treatment or product continue with a slower approach.”