Acids, vitamin C serums and retinoids can all cause purging. Purging is an initial acne breakout that can occur when you're starting a new active skincare product—one that causes your skin cells to turn over more quickly. Products that can trigger purging include: Hydroxy acids (AHAs, BHAs and PHAs) and fruit acids.
Generally speaking, dermatologists say purging should be over within four to six weeks of starting a new skin care regimen. If your purge lasts longer than six weeks, consult your dermatologist.
“Vitamin C can be irritating at higher concentrations,” he says. Plus, certain types of vitamin C can be more irritating than others, for example. L-ascorbic acid, a popular form of vitamin C might cause sensitive, acneic skin to be more reactive. In some cases, vitamin C can lead to improvements in acne.
Dr. Chiu warns that because vitamin C is a skin-care “active”—meaning it's particularly potent—applying too much of it on your face can potentially lead to more breakouts or irritation. Keep it to a max of two applications a day when a formula that has no more than 10% vitamin C each time.
You may choose to begin applying it every other day, and if tolerated you may apply it daily. It may take up to three months of consistent use to see a noticeable improvement.
4 weeks is usually the golden rule for beginning to see changes - it's allowed your skin to go through at least one renewal cycle with this skin-changing ingredient. At this point, your skin should have a subtle change in radiance, which is something you'll notice will stick around as long as you keep using Vitamin C.
Acids, vitamin C serums and retinoids can all cause purging. Purging is an initial acne breakout that can occur when you're starting a new active skincare product—one that causes your skin cells to turn over more quickly.
What Does Skin Purging Look Like? Purging breakouts look like tiny, red bumps on the skin that are painful when touched. Often, there may be whiteheads and blackheads that appear along with the bumps.
Yes, breakouts are bad (and annoying), but your skin is essentially cleaning itself which is a good thing! Skin purging typically occurs when you try a new product. If you experience purging, the new products are doing their job! Give your skin about two weeks to get acclimated and you should see the breakouts go away.
Even at high doses, vitamin C is not known to be toxic or to cause any serious adverse effects.
How to treat skin purging. “If the skin barrier is compromised when you see purging then start ingredients which help with barrier repair, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid in a non-comedogenic formulation. If you are using a treatment or product continue with a slower approach.”
Cleanse. It is important to wash your skin every morning and night to remove any debris, pollutants, residual makeup, and skincare residue that might clog your pores when getting skin purging. You should choose a mild, hydrating cleanser.
When we are young, cell renewal is faster, and usually takes about 28 days when we're in our 20's. This process slows down as we age, taking about 40 days as we reach our 40's.” While this process can make your skin look glowing and luminous, at first it can be frustrating or daunting.
Purging is when your skin is adjusting to the new product. Persevering with the product will eventually make your skin better – in fact, the sudden crop of pimples means that it's working as intended. A regular breakout is when your skin is reacting because it's sensitive to something in the product.
So what's the difference between a skin purge and a breakout? Skin purging is when your skin is adjusting to the new product. Spots appear where you frequently get them and they go away faster than a normal pimple. Purging is a sign that the product is working and you should continue with the treatment as prescribed.
If you have skin purging, you may experience whiteheads, blackheads, dryness, or even flaking. While skin purging and breakouts have similar symptoms, skin purging is temporary and lasts for a maximum of six weeks, while breakouts can last longer.
Vitamin C contains anti-inflammatory properties and helps reduce the redness and swelling that comes with acne. The results are more pronounced when you use the vitamin topically. It, therefore, helps improve the appearance of acne wounds.
Also, keep in mind that it can take two to four weeks of daily usage to see results, so keep a close watch on your skin. If it starts looking brighter, that's a sure sign your vitamin C products are working. Shop a few of our favourite vitamin C-infused products below.
AHAs and BHAs, such as glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids should never be used with Vitamin C. Vitamin C is an acid, too, and is unstable, so the pH balance will be thrown off by layering these ingredients together and might as well be useless.
Dryness & Irritation
As with retinol, vitamin C is fairly potent on the skin, and using it regularly when first integrating it into your skincare routine can lead to redness, dryness, and increased sensitivity that can then cause you to look older than you are.
Always allow your serum to absorb for 60-90 seconds, to ensure it has time to penetrate the skin. Follow up with a moisturizer to lock in the goodness of your serum, and bolster your skin's protective lipid barrier.
Can vitamin C clog pores? Yes, it can, but only if you are using an unstable form of vitamin C as ascorbic acid (another name for vitamin C) can become oxidised when exposed to light and air which can lead to blackheads developing and appearing worse on the skin.
If you're wondering when to apply a vitamin C serum, the answer is both morning and night, after cleansing and toning. One study even recommends applying a vitamin C serum every eight hours, or twice daily for the pinnacle of protection.
Ascorbic acid and L-ascorbic acid can make blackheads worse
“Ascorbic acid and L-ascorbic acid are known to oxidize quickly on the skin in the presence of light and air,” Rouleau states. “This can cause unwanted side effects like more noticeable blackheads.”