Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. They also stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin color. Additional benefits include fading age spots and softening rough patches of skin.
Now research has found that retinol, one of the retinoid compounds, can also help counter the signs of skin aging that's unrelated to the sun, including fine wrinkles, roughness, and skin looseness.
Generally speaking, I recommend most people start using retinol in their mid to late-20s, anywhere from 25-30. This is when collagen and elastin production starts to slow down, so it's the perfect time to start reaping the preventative-aging benefits retinol has to offer.
Retinoids sink into your skin and stimulate the production of new skin cells, which speeds up exfoliation, increases collagen production, brightens scars and dark marks, smooths fine lines and wrinkles, and, yes, destroys acne. Oh, and it can also make you look 60 years old when you're 78, apparently.
First, the answer is yes, retinol can make wrinkles worse, especially when you first start using it. What is happening is a drying effect, and one can get epidermal sliding from separation from the dermis.
Remember, that 'retinoid uglies' are likely to be temporary, and it will take time before you see the end result. You have three skin layers—the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Your epidermis is your visible layer, and renews approximately every 28 days.
The truth is that even if you're in your twenties, you're not too young for retinol. Age just doesn't matter. Because it's not only for anti-aging, but it also works for acne. Retinol, and prescription retinoids, are commonly used for getting rid of breakouts—especially in teenagers.
Just keep in mind that your age affects what treatments are most effective for you. While people in their 20s and 30s might benefit from sun protection and light serums, those in their 40s may reach for a retinol. However, more mature women might benefit from in-office cosmetic dermatology treatments.
Retinol is best applied at night since it can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. When you do go outside, be sure to use sunscreen to protect your face. It's worth noting that you don't need to use retinol on a daily basis for it to effectively treat your acne. Even two to three times per week might be enough.
Pending potency, OTC retinol can take up to six months to see results." That's not to say you won't see any benefits upon the first few uses. Nussbaum explains that in the short term, the benefits are that your skin will be exfoliated of dead skin cells and your pores will be unclogged.
There are definitely side effects with both retinols and retinoids, but I want to emphasize that they're temporary, lasting around three to four weeks. The most common side effects I see with patients are redness, dry and scaly skin and itching or burning.
Retinoids work best if you use them daily. Specifically, they should be used at night because some types are deactivated by light and air. It's important to start slowly and allow your skin time to adjust. Using too much too quickly can cause redness, dryness, and irritation.
Should you use retinol under your eyes? Yes, definitely. While it is true that retinol – a form of vitamin A – is a powerful ingredient and the skin under your eyes is delicate, there's no reason why you should miss out on the amazing benefits of retinol.
With retinoids, it's often a “worse-before-better” type of situation. Typical side effects include dryness, tightness, peeling, and redness — especially when first starting out. These side effects usually subside after two to four weeks until the skin acclimates. Your skin will thank you later!
Don't Mix: Retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and AHA/BHA acids. AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating, which can dry out skin and cause further irritation if your skincare routine already includes retinol. As for benzoyl peroxide and retinol, they cancel each other out.
Reach for a retinol or retinoid product to turn over dull skin and help increase collagen production. “Because these ingredients can be drying, I typically recommend patients start with a retinol- or micronized retinoid-based treatment to lower the possibility of irritation," Herrmann says.
In your 30s, you should absolutely be using a retinol. Retinol is the ultimate anti-aging product, as it helps even skin tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and increases firmness! Apply a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin every other night.
Most people in their twenties should follow a daily skin care routine and a visit to the skin clinic once every 40days for a cleaning and moisturisng program. If you are in your 30's or 40's, once a month visit is a must, provided your skin care discipline at home is carefully worked out.
Who should skip retinol? “Retinols can be a beneficial addition for most skin types, but it isn't a one-size-fits-all approach,” Panzica says. Board certified dermatologist Zenovia Gabriel, MD, notes that “people with sensitive skin conditions like rosacea cannot tolerate really strong topicals like retinols.”
A formula with retinol, like the L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Triple Power Eye Treatment, should be applied after your serums and before moisturizer due to its consistency.
Using any form of retinol makes your skin more prone to sunburn. Sun damage combined with retinol burn is a recipe for redness or discoloration, inflammation, and more.
Purging is slightly different, appearing on the skin mostly as blackheads or small skin-coloured bumps just under the surface of the skin. But it is also possible for purging to cause similar spots to a breakout, too.
Rouleau says the best time to use a scrub is in the morning. Overnight you've loosened up dead skin cells with your glycolic acid or retinol products, making the morning a perfect time to brush them off.
Retinol, salicylic acid, glycolic acid—all effective ingredients that can improve the look and feel of your complexion. But they can lead to irritation, and when used too close to your delicate eye area, that irritation can lead to bags.
But rather than using your standard retinol cream, it's best to use a product formulated specifically for the delicate skin around the eyes. "The under-eye area is quite sensitive as it is some of the thinnest skin on the body," explains New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Anthony Rossi.