Using too much 20 volume developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a tie-dye gone wrong.
Damage: Excessive use of developer can cause damage to your hair, such as dryness, breakage, and split ends.
Dryness and Damage: As mentioned earlier, higher volumes of developers can cause severe damage and dryness. If you use too much hair colour and developer, the excess peroxide can strip your hair of its natural oils, leaving it brittle and prone to breakage.
20 developer has around 6% peroxide. 30 developer has around 9% peroxide. Either would work. A 30 developer just processes faster. At the salon I was able to bleach my cousins deep dark hair blonde using a 20 developer, it just takes longer you just have to make sure it doesn't dry out and it should be fine.
Natural bleaching agents like apple cider vinegar, lemon juice, chamomile tea, or cinnamon and honey can lighten hair gently and naturally with minimal damage.
For instance, if you're a dark blonde and want to become a light blonde, 20 volume can help you achieve this gentle lift without needing bleach.
Coffee works great if you're looking to go darker, cover gray hairs, or add dimension to dark tresses. Simply brew a strong coffee (espresso works well), let it cool, and then mix one cup with a couple cups of leave-in conditioner and 2 tablespoons of coffee grounds.
30 Volume Developers
It is usable and can be used with a lightening scram, a powder, or permanent hair color. It is advisable to stay away from this developer if you are not a hair coloring professional because it contains high concentrations of peroxide and might cause hair damage if not used with care.
The 30 Volume (9%) developer is ideal for achieving more dramatic color changes, lifting hair by 2-3 levels and creating noticeable lightening. It is effective for lightening dark hair to a medium shade, though it may cause scalp irritation.
Using a 20-volume developer is relatively easy. Mix the developer with the hair color. Apply the mixture to the hair, making sure to cover all areas evenly. Leave the developer mix on for 30-45 minutes, depending on the desired results and the hair type.
Yes. Developer can damage hair. If you pick a developer that is too strong for the hair texture of your client, it has the possibility of lifting the cuticle so much that it can't be smoothed back down. So, how do you pick the right developer for the job?
If your hair is brown, you may need to bleach it more than once before you apply the grey dye. It's important you get your hair as light as possible before you attempt to turn it grey – this will help ensure a more even tone and vibrant, all-over colour.
If you don't have a developer on hand for bleaching, you can use hydrogen peroxide as a substitute. Hydrogen peroxide is a common household item that is often used to disinfect wounds! It can also be used as a bleach substitute because it has similar properties to developer.
The release of oxygen will indeed allow the hair to lighten. And 30 Vol will definitely do this to a greater extent than 20 Vol. But we don't recommend that you apply just developer to the hair. You will get an uncontrolled lift, without any re-coloration and you will end up damaging the hair.
The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.
The main difference between toner and hair color is that the former simply deposits pigments on the surface of the hair, while the latter—at least in the case of permanent hair color—introduces color deep into the hair cuticle. And because they only act on the surface, toners won't damage your hair.
Use 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring and going darker. Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage. Use 40 Vol for 3 levels lift and more. The mix for Ugly Duckling cream color is 1 part color to 1 part developer.
One of the most common questions is: How long to leave 30 volume developer on hair? In general, it's recommended to leave it on for 15–30 minutes, depending on how much lift you're looking for. However, going over this time can cause significant damage.
Use 10 Volume if you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. If the desired result is keeping color at the same color level by simply adding a tone or a tint, this is exactly what you should mix with. It won't significantly lift your base color and is the least damaging to the hair.
If you're applying bleach to wet hair, keep in mind that the color of your strands won't lift as much as it would if applied to dry hair. This is because the water on your hair will dilute the bleach, resulting in softer results. For a subtle color change, your colorist may use bleach on wet hair.
The developer found in box color ranges between 20 and 40 volume because that is what is needed to cover gray or to change a very dark shade. Frequently coating the hair shaft with a high volume developer will cause damage, particularly if the starting condition is weakened or fragile.
Developers play a vital role in opening the hair cuticle, allowing the dye to penetrate deeply and deliver long-lasting, vibrant color. Without a developer, the dye will only coat the hair surface, resulting in patchy, uneven coverage that fades quickly.