There's two reasons why your hair is still brassy after toning or colouring. Either the undertone of the toner/colour is wrong, or the product is too light for you.
If your hair is still yellow after toning, then you likely didn't formulate dark enough for the toner to cover. You'll need to reformulate, dropping the toner another level or two to ensure it covers the yellow properly.
Bleach Strength and Processing Time: The strength of the bleach and the amount of time it is left on the hair can affect the final color. If the bleach is too weak or not left on long enough, it may not lift the hair to the desired level of blonde, leading to yellow tones.
Usually it's because the roots didn't lift enough. If they're not light enough, the toner won't do anything thing. Generally you need to lift your hair at least to the color of the inside of a banana peel for a toner to work.
By looking at color theory and choosing the opposite color of your hair in the color wheel, such as purple or blue shades, you can neutralize the yellow and orange. This method gives the impression of cooler tones without affecting the pigments in a permanent way.
Leave the toner for at least 40 minutes, and not more, to avoid overtoning. Leave the toner for 15–35 minutes to eliminate brassy tones. Brassy hair is of three types: yellow, orange, and red. Leave the toner for 5–20 minutes.
20 Vol Developer will lighten your hair slightly and will give permanent results. Use this with Wella Colour Charm Permanent Toners, along with Shimmer Lights Toners and Lightener. Keep in mind, as 20 Vol Developer lightens your hair slightly, it can cause brassiness at your roots (if they're darker than your lengths).
If your hair's turned orange, you'll need a blue toning shampoo to tone the brassiness and get rid of the orange.
Overlapping the toner application or leaving it on for too long can lead to overprocessing, which may result in dryness, breakage, or a change in texture. To avoid overprocessing, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and monitor the toner's development time.
During the lifting process, a mixture of ammonia and bleach, along with peroxide, is applied to the hair and allowed to process until the existing color is either diluted or removed. Then tones are added back into the now bleached hair in order to give it the desired color.
Toning Products: Hair toners, available as sprays, masks, or shampoos, can help neutralize unwanted yellow tones. Look for products specifically formulated for grey or silver hair. Professional Help: If the yellowing is severe or persistent, consider visiting a professional stylist.
Simply put, whichever colours sit opposite one another on this wheel can cancel each other out. For example, blue neutralizes orange, green balances red, and purple tones down yellow hues. That means, in order to target yellow, you need a touch of violet in your formula.
In the salon, your stylist can apply a low-ammonia toner formula to your hair after it is lightened. For example, if the goal is a pearly blonde shade, your stylist will use a lightener first, then apply a violet toner to cancel out the yellow tones that are exposed when your hair color is lifted.
Hard water not only fades toner but can cause a mineral build-up on your hair, making it feel extra greasy even after a wash. It may also contribute to dry, damaged hair due to frequent washing. It can actually make hair look dull and darker.
Remedies for Over-Toned Hair:
One effective remedy is the use of clarifying shampoos or treatments to help remove excess toner and buildup from the hair. These products work by gently stripping away unwanted color deposits and restoring the hair's vibrancy.
Signs of Expired Toner
Poor Print Quality: Prints may appear faded, streaky, or inconsistent. Clumping: Toner powder can clump together, which can cause jams and other mechanical issues in your printer.
Watch for the color to reach the desired tone. For cool-toned blondes, for example, the hair should start to lose its yellow or brassy hues and shift toward the cool shade you're aiming for. 2. Gently wipe off a small section of toner to check the color.
One option is to re-bleach the roots to lift them to a lighter level before toning again. You need to get them to that very pale yellow - think the inside of a banana. This will help to ensure that your favourite toner can effectively neutralize any remaining yellow tones and match the rest of your hair perfectly.
After toning, you can use purple shampoo and mask to get rid of any remaining yellow.
You should visit your hairstylist and ask them to correct the orange. It means she didn't leave the bleach long enough and the hair didn't lift to the proper level so that you would be blonde and NOT orange. This is something she needs to know.. and if she can't fix it, find another stylist.
When deciding how to tone yellow hair to ash, try using a violet shampoo first. As purple is the opposite of yellow on the colour spectrum, the shampoo's purple pigment draws out the yellow brassiness from your blonde, neutralises those unwanted tones, and makes your colour look cooler, healthier and more vibrant.
You want the hair cuticle to be open for toning. Towel-dry hair to about 65 - 75% dry then start toning. Usually color & bleach is on dry hair, even toners and colors that do not require developer; however toner that uses developer is recommended on towel dried hair.
Orange hair does not require strong peroxide developers. 6% (20 volume) will be more than sufficient to lift hair those last few levels.