Pigment loss occurs naturally in hair as we age. Along with the changes in pigmentation, grey hairs can also undergo structural changes Grey hair is often also coarser. The outer cuticle layer of greys can be more tightly packed and layered, making them resistant to colour absorption.
To catch any stubborn greys, “Do little dots all the way along your hairline, and then rub the colour in,” advises Josh. “It's really hard to colour the back of your own hair,” Josh admits, “but one tip is to start at the top of your head, and work backwards, all the way down to the nape of the neck.”
Hair Structure: Grey hair tends to be coarser and drier than pigmented hair. The texture can affect how well the dye penetrates the hair shaft. Porosity: Grey hair can be less porous than colored hair, which means it may not absorb dye as effectively. This can lead to uneven color or a quicker fade.
The roots are thicker, so they might need more time to soak in the colour. Maybe try putting the dye in when your hair is dry so it is more absorbent. If your roots are naturally darker maybe the colour just doesn't show up as easy either? You could try a different dye for your roots if that is possible.
Neutral shades like soft blonde, mushroom brown, light copper, and caramel blonde balayage are the easiest to blend gray into (and maintain over time without wanting to shave your hair off).
1. Use a Permanent Color. If your client hopes to cover up truly stubborn, color-resistant grays, a permanent color pigment is going to offer the most concentrated result. Try Illumina Color for a multi-dimensional finish and Koleston Perfect for pure and saturated coverage.
The outer cuticle layer of greys can be more tightly packed and layered, making them resistant to colour absorption. As a result, it can be more difficult to colour resistant grey hair and to cover visible regrowth.
“It's always safe to dye your roots, even as frequently as every 10-14 days—as long as the application is only at the roots, with no overlap on your existing color,” explains Sharon Dorram, celebrity colorist and owner of Sharon Dorram Color at Sally Hershberger Salon.
Either the application isn't even, the waiting time is too short or you aren't using the right product for the desired effect. Another reason could be that your hair has already been sensitised by products which are too harsh for your locks or the heat from a heating device.
Apply color to your roots first. Hair that's been previously colored is porous and soaks up color easily, but new growth requires more processing time. Leave color on your roots for the full time and only process ends for half the required time. It'll give you a nice even color from root to tip.
The Colors to Avoid with Gray Hair
Here are a few to steer clear of: Muddy Neutrals: Beige, taupe, and other muted tones can make your skin look washed out and ashy. Earthy Yellows and Oranges: These warm tones clash with the coolness of gray hair and can make your complexion look sallow.
Pick a lighter hair colour
A lighter colour will then look better. Your hair follicles produce less pigment as you're turning older.
Gray hair has its own personality - and it's usually uncooperative. Its texture can be coarse, stubborn, and unruly, making it resistant to color.
You won't be surprised to hear that you should be covering the grey with brown dye, but the best hair dye for grey hair here is a medium-light shade, even if you are naturally very dark, as this will complement your naturally paling skin.
Processing time with grey hair
The pigments in the dye need more time to penetrate through that so they can do their job. So with grey hair it's also best to let the dye sit for 45 minutes from the moment you've finished applying all of the dye so you'll be sure you have enough coverage.
If you left the hair dye in as recommended and used enough hair dye, most likely this is one of the reasons: You might have used a colour that was too light for your hair. You can't lighten already dyed hair. See what colours can work for you in our Colour advice tool.
As we age, the oil produced naturally by our hair dwindles. Our scalp becomes drier, and our hair becomes more coarse. This course, dry hair is highly resistant to color.
Along with a drop in melanin production, grey hair produces less sebum – the natural oil that keeps it soft and supple. As its texture changes, your hair might feel more dry, coarse, or wiry. This means it won't absorb hair dye like it used to.
The speed of greying is in our genetics, they tell us. It's just a case of contrast, says Josh Wood. "The lighter you are, the more the grey blends in," Josh explains. "But when you've got a darker head of hair with a streak of grey in it, it looks very black and white, like piano keys," says Josh.
Premature graying may be reversed with vitamin B12 supplementation only if vitamin B12 deficiency is the cause. If you are graying due to other factors, such as genetics, zinc deficiency, and medications, your gray hair cannot be reversed.
Box dyes often say they contain moisturising ingredients or are 'ammonia-free'. However, even these usually contain PPDs, salts and other chemicals that will damage hair, especially with repeated use.
It could be that your hair is resistant to tint, especially when the hair texture has changed as a result of going white. But also it could be that by going lighter, either all over, or by introducing (subtle) highlights you would not see the regrowth strip quite as quickly as if it were lighter.