The typical ratio is 1 part hair color to 1.5 or 2 parts developer for effective gray coverage.
I mixed 1 part color to 2 parts 30 vol developer, you can also use 20 vol if you feel more comfortable. I started at my part and then worked in small sections until I saturated my roots with color. I left my color in for 30 min, if you use 20 vol you can leave the color in for 45 min for max gray coverage.
20 Volume Developer: This is the most common choice for covering grey hair. It provides a little lift and is effective for achieving a more intense color. It's suitable for most grey coverage situations. 30 Volume Developer: This is used for more significant lift (usually one to two levels).
Grey needs at least a 10 volume and sometimes a 20 volume developer because grey hair is stubborn at opening up to accept color. It's coarser and the cuticle can be more tightly closed, making a 20vol necessary to open it more.
Developer Volume: - 20 Volume Developer: This is the most common choice for covering gray hair. It provides enough lift to cover gray while allowing the color to deposit effectively.
Pigment loss occurs naturally in hair as we age. Along with the changes in pigmentation, grey hairs can also undergo structural changes Grey hair is often also coarser. The outer cuticle layer of greys can be more tightly packed and layered, making them resistant to colour absorption.
20 volume is likely the most used developer in the salon. 20volume will give 1-2 levels of lift when used with permanent hair color. It is the standard developer for grey coverage, however, a stronger developer may be needed for more resistant hair types.
Hair dye volumes refer to the strength of the developer, which impacts the level of color lift. A 10 Volume developer provides minimal lift, perfect for depositing color. A 20 Volume developer lifts hair by 1-2 levels, while a 30 Volume developer lifts by 2-3 levels.
Is it better to go lighter or darker to cover grey hair? As for your permanent colour kit choice, for the best grey coverage, Josh recommends choosing a shade close to your natural root colour (that's the colour between the greys.) "Make sure to never stray more than two shades away from this,” says Josh.
The mean age of senile graying for Caucasians (whites) is mid-30s; for Asians of the late 30's; and for Africans of mid-40s. There is a practical declaration which states that at the age of 50, 50% of the population has 50% gray hair (rule of thumb) [4] . The gray of age varies according to race and ethnicity. ...
As a general rule, a 1:2 ratio of hair color to developer is recommended, but you may need to adjust the proportions depending on the color line and the desired results. And if math isn't your strong suit, don't worry - just use a digital scale to measure the correct amount.
Processing time with grey hair
The pigments in the dye need more time to penetrate through that so they can do their job. So with grey hair it's also best to let the dye sit for 45 minutes from the moment you've finished applying all of the dye so you'll be sure you have enough coverage.
If you use too much hair colour and developer, the excess peroxide can strip your hair of its natural oils, leaving it brittle and prone to breakage. Irritation at the Scalp: Using more hair colour than a developer can also result in scalp irritation due to the chemical reaction between dye and peroxide.
When coloring level-on-level or darker, you can use 10 or 20 Vol developer. Once again, the mix should always be respected: 1 part color to 1 part developer.
The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.
Grey Hair has lost all its Natural pigment, leaving little for your Hair Colour pigment to grab onto or build off. Your nearly Lighter base will cause your Hair to look Lighter and/or Golden, even brassie.
By pre-softening the hair with hydrogen peroxide (we call it the developer) your hair cuticles open so the pigment can be absorbed well. For this, apply the pure developer (hydrogen peroxide) to the grey strands. Use a comb to comb the developer through the areas that need pre-softening.
We do not recommend 10 Volume Developer for covering grays as 20vol has a higher concentration of H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to open the cuticle more for lift and deposit. However, if more than one level of lift is needed while also providing gray coverage, 30vol and 40vol can also technically be used.
If your hair is brown, you may need to bleach it more than once before you apply the grey dye. It's important you get your hair as light as possible before you attempt to turn it grey – this will help ensure a more even tone and vibrant, all-over colour.
What happens if you put too much developer in hair dye? Too much developer added to a hair color formula will dilute the artificial dye molecules, and add too much oxygen to the formula. This will typically display a sheer end result that does not have the depth you may have anticipated.
Always Use a 20 Volume Developer
Since there is no pigment, there is no need to lift. You just need to open the cuticle enough to deposit the color. If you feel you can get full coverage using a 10 or 15 volume then by all means use a lower volume.
Leave a 20-volume developer on for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the desired lift and product instructions.
The developer found in box color ranges between 20 and 40 volume because that is what is needed to cover gray or to change a very dark shade. Frequently coating the hair shaft with a high volume developer will cause damage, particularly if the starting condition is weakened or fragile.