Hair perming involves breaking the cysteine bonds in your hair using this thioglycolic acid. The cysteine bond is what gives your hair its structure. It therefore needs to be undone in order to achieve the new shape. “If the product is left on for too long it can cause these bonds to break permanently.
A perming solution may be left in the hair for too long, may not be mixed properly, or may simply be too potent for an individual's hair type. This can result in the hair losing its natural elasticity and moisture leaving it excessively dry, brittle and susceptible to breakage and hair loss.
Once the perm solution has been applied and left to process for the appropriate amount of time (usually around 25 minutes), hair is rinsed for 5 min towel blotted and the neutralizer is applied to set the new curl shape. The hair is then rinsed and styled as desired.
Washing your hair just 24 hours after a perm is a bit too soon, so there's a chance it might affect the results. The chemicals need more time to fully set, usually around 48 to 72 hours. Since you washed it early, your curls might end up looser, frizzier, or not last as long as they should.
Yes! Water deactivates perm and makes your curls fall apart. It breaks the physical side bonds, making the hair reliant on the reformed chemical bonds.
If you want to undo the results of a perm, or relax a perm, wash your hair with Color Protecting Shampoo and Conditioner to cleanse and hydrate your hair, and to help relax your curls. Apply a deep conditioning treatment or hot oil treatment, cover your curls with a shower cap, and leave on for several hours.
Ongoing Perm Maintenance
Don't use products that contain parabens, sulphates, or alcohol as these can ruin your perm.
The two easiest ways to know if your hair has been over-processed are by the look and feel of it. What does over processed hair look like? The most common signs include dullness, fragile ends, and breakage.
Don't wash your hair for 48-72 hours after a perm . During that time your perm is still technically forming and can be ruined or relax if you decide to wash it within that time frame.
Frizziness is a common issue with permed hair, especially if it's not properly moisturized. To combat frizz, make sure you're using a sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoo and a rich conditioner. Apply a leave-in conditioner or curl cream specifically designed for curly or permed hair.
Leaving the **neutralizer **on longer than recommended can lead to hair damage. The neutralizer is an important step in the process of perming hair, as it helps to stabilize the new shape of the hair.
Continuously subjecting a perm to activities like swimming, frequent shampooing or wet weather will damage the longevity of your perm. Getting it wet opens your hair's cuticle, releasing the chemicals used to set the perm.
If your perm was done within the last 72 hours, you can shampoo it with a clarifying shampoo and condition it. This will relax the perm a little bit. It's not recommended to reverse a perm, doing so requires an additional chemical service and the hair will never look the way it did prior to the perm.
With regular haircuts, men can remove the results of a bad perm within a few months. Women who wear their hair long are stuck with perm damage for much longer.
The disulphide bonds can only be broken with heat (as happens in 'permanent waving' hair treatment), but hydrogen bonds are affected by water, so the individual molecules can change their shape temporarily when wet.
What does chemically damaged hair look like? If you're seeing frizzy, dull, and dry hair, or if you're experiencing split ends, breakages or hair loss, chances are you've got a spot of chemical damage. Those of us with curly hair might notice our curls are less defined and may even become straight.
Applying high heat to your hair can cause small air bubbles to form inside the hair shafts, making them very fragile and prone to breaking [7]. This is why excessive heat often leads to hair loss. It can also damage your cuticles, making your strands porous and giving them a straw-like look and feel.
If the chemical overstays, then the hair becomes over processed. If the chemical is left for less time than intended, then the hair becomes under processed and comes out looking frizzled. The chemical solution needs to be completely rinsed off from the hair, otherwise the hair will get damaged and start breaking off.
Wait before washing your hair
You can't get your perm wet, put it up or even touch it much while the chemicals reset your strands. Even after getting your perm, washing it everyday will affect the longevity of your curls, so prolong the gap between washes as long as possible.
Keeping your permed hair safe overnight might be the most difficult task yet. Regular cotton pillowcases can cause friction that damages your hair. Sleep on a satin pillowcase instead to give your hair the freedom to move without damage. You could tie your hair up in a loose bun, braids, or do the plop method.
If you are unhappy with your perm service, go back to your stylist and discuss the alternatives. If it is too curly, your stylist can relax it. If it is not curly enough, wait at least a week to redo it.
Neutralizer: a neutralising liquid for perms, containing hydrogen peroxide to restructure and strengthen the hair's bonds.
Never brush your hair when dry—the curls can easily break since it's prone to frizz and coarse. Try detangling your hair when damp after a conditioning application. This is the best way to minimize damage and maintain your lovely permed curls.