Despite dermatologists describing retinol as a skin-care star, it can come with an unpleasant side effect: retinol burn. Also known as retinol irritation, it's essentially what happens when your face can't tolerate the powerful ingredient and subsequently devolves into a flaky, peeling, red mess.
Retinol burn typically occurs within 24 hours. Even with home remedies, it can take about a week for the visible signs of retinol burn to dissipate.
You may have heard that extended retinol use can cause the skin to thin and the skin barrier to degrade as a result of increased cell turnover, but Shah says that's a myth. You don't need to worry about retinol causing permanent damage, Schlessinger says.
Remember, that 'retinoid uglies' are likely to be temporary, and it will take time before you see the end result. You have three skin layers—the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. Your epidermis is your visible layer, and renews approximately every 28 days.
Retinol burn may also occur depending on the formulation you're using and how often you're applying it. "Over-the-counter retinols tend to cause less irritation than prescription retinoids," says Chang. "It can take weeks for your skin to get used to them, so it's important to ease your way in.
"You can definitely prevent [the retinoid uglies]," he says. "First, make sure it's applied to dry skin. Apply every third night for the first two weeks, then every second night for the next week, and so on so that your skin can get acclimated to it.
Signs of an allergic reaction, like rash; hives; itching; red, swollen, blistered, or peeling skin with or without fever; wheezing; tightness in the chest or throat; trouble breathing, swallowing, or talking; unusual hoarseness; or swelling of the mouth, face, lips, tongue, or throat.
If you've had an adverse reaction to retinol before, it's important to give your skin a break—but don't completely eliminate the ingredient. When it's time to reintroduce retinol into your routine, consider starting with a lower-strength product and building up the potency (and your tolerance) gradually over time.
“If you're overusing your retinol, or if you're using a retinol that's too strong for you, it can lead to peeling, irritation, and excessive dryness, which may have led to retinol's association with skin thinning,” she says.
Skin purging happens when new ingredients, like retinol, promote increased cell turnover, which causes clogging and worsening breakouts. This is particularly the case as oil and debris that is trapped deeper underneath the skin comes to the surface.
Purging is slightly different, appearing on the skin mostly as blackheads or small skin-coloured bumps just under the surface of the skin. But it is also possible for purging to cause similar spots to a breakout, too.
The purge phase usually lasts for two to six weeks. But, it can vary depending on the skin. It can range from minor pimples to cystic acne, as well as dryness, redness, and peeling. Also, it is important to remember that retinol isn't the direct cause of acne.
While prescription-strength retinoids may have an effect in a matter of weeks, it can take up to 6 months for OTC retinols to produce the same results. You may notice a difference in conditions like acne after 12 weeks, but sun damage and signs of aging can take much, much longer to improve.
Skin purging typically looks like tiny red bumps on the skin that are painful to touch. They are often accompanied by whiteheads or blackheads. It can also cause your skin to become flaky. The flare ups caused by purging have a shorter lifespan than a breakout.
A papule looks like a tiny, raised bump on the skin. It develops from excess oil and skin cells clogging a pore. Papules have no visible pus. Typically the papule will fill with pus in a few days.
Peeling, redness, and irritation are common onset reactions for some people when they first start to use retinol. Some reactions get so bad that the common term used to describe the list of effects has been dubbed the “retinol uglies”. Note from a skincare expert: Many things in life get worse before they get better.
"Retinol basically increases your collagen, so it thickens the dermal layer as well as the epidermal layer," Dr. Wang clarifies. "It does weaken the skin barrier, and that is why you get desquamation, peeling, redness, irritation." You're probably somewhat familiar with the skin barrier, or stratum corneum.
Retinoids cause dryness when they come into contact with our lips and can even trigger itching, redness and frank dermatitis, so a clear plan of preventative action is needed!
The best product you can use in conjunction with retinol, according to Dr. Zeichner, is a moisturizer, which can help hydrate skin and reduce the risk of irritation from retinol. “Some people even prefer to mix their retinol with a moisturizing cream to dilute it out,” he says.
Retinoids sink into your skin and stimulate the production of new skin cells, which speeds up exfoliation, increases collagen production, brightens scars and dark marks, smooths fine lines and wrinkles, and, yes, destroys acne. Oh, and it can also make you look 60 years old when you're 78, apparently.
The signs of a damaged skin barrier include dryness, dullness, redness, sensitivity, and breakouts. You can repair skin barrier damage by adjusting your skincare habits and moisturizing properly. The best ingredients for your skin barrier are humectants, emollients, ceramides, and antioxidants.
It looks like a red bump on the skin. Papules form when there is a high break in the follicle wall. An acne papule often turns into a pustule. Acne papules are also known as pimples or zits.