What does developer do for hair dye?

Author: Lon Macejkovic  |  Last update: Sunday, March 23, 2025

The developer aids in the penetration of the color into the hair shaft, allowing it to become permanent. The cuticle layer of the hair is lifted by a hydrogen peroxide developer, and the cuticle lift varies depending on the intensity of the activator.

Do you really need developer for hair dye?

Yes, a developer is necessary to deposit the haircolor and allow it to last in the hair. You don't need anythinging higher than 10V.

Should I use 20 or 30 developer with permanent color?

20 volume is the cutoff point for permanent hair color. So permanent color is 20 volume or higher. 20 volume lifts a MAX of two levels. 30 volume lifts a MAX of 3 levels and 40 volume lifts a maximum of 4 levels. All these developers can be used with permanent hair color.

What happens if you use hair dye without developer?

Here's what happens if you don't use hair developer with hair dye: Lack of penetration: Without a developer, the dye molecules won't be able to fully penetrate the hair shaft. This can lead to uneven color distribution and patchy results (1).

Should I use 10 or 20 developer to darken hair?

If you are trying to go darker or just deposit the color, a low-level developer like a 10 vol (or lower in some brands) would be used. If you are using a permanent, they usually use a higher developer like 20, to lift the hair and deposit color at the same time.

hair color developer explained- 10, 20, 30 & 40 volume | 2024

What happens if I use 10 developer instead of 20?

Hair dye volumes refer to the strength of the developer, which impacts the level of color lift. A 10 Volume developer provides minimal lift, perfect for depositing color. A 20 Volume developer lifts hair by 1-2 levels, while a 30 Volume developer lifts by 2-3 levels.

Do I need developer if I'm going darker?

Technically, no, you don't need developer to darken your hair. But hold your horses, there's a catch. If you want to change your hair color to a darker shade than your natural color, you'll still need a hair dye that contains a small amount of developer to help the color molecules penetrate the hair shaft.

Can I use conditioner instead of developer for hair dye?

No, conditioner cannot replace developer. The developer activates the dye and allows it to penetrate the hair, while conditioner only moisturizes the hair.

How to fix hot roots?

A bit more depth at your roots add some dimension and can look very natural. Change to a cool based colour. Cool tones will counter-balance and correct unwanted warmth. Try using a toner, which will deposit cool tones only to balance unwanted warmth.

Does developer only lighten hair?

A hair developer is a hydrogen peroxide-based cream or lotion that's used to lighten hair. When combined with hair dye, it helps the color molecules penetrate the hair shaft so that your color will be long-lasting and uniform.

What happens if I use 10 volume developer with permanent color?

Use 10 Volume if you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. If the desired result is keeping color at the same color level by simply adding a tone or a tint, this is exactly what you should mix with. It won't significantly lift your base color and is the least damaging to the hair.

What developer deposits the most color?

When you need a more significant lift in hair color, opt for a 30 Volume (9%) Developer. It lifts hair by 2-3 levels, making it suitable for achieving medium to lighter shades from darker bases.

Will 20 developer lighten my roots?

The problem: Applying 20 Vol Developer on Natural Roots

Hot roots happen when you apply a colour mixed with a 20 vol developer to your natural root area as this strength developer lifts the hair slightly. This is more common with lighter shades and toners.

What hair color doesn t need developer?

What is semi-permanent color? A semi-permanent color contains no ammonia and deposits only. It does not require mixing with a developer and lasts anywhere from 4 – 12 shampoos. This type of color is used to blend gray or enhance natural color and it's safe for immediate use after a relaxer or perm service.

What happens if you don't mix hair color with developer?

Uneven Color: If you use too much hair colour, it's likely that your strands won't have enough developer to activate and lift the pigment evenly. This can result in patchy or uneven colouring, giving your hair a splotchy appearance that is difficult to fix.

What does toner do to hair?

It doesn't completely alter your hair colour, but it helps you subtly manipulate the shade of brassy hair. Hair toners neutralise unwanted warm or brassy tones to help you achieve a shinier, healthier, more natural-looking shade.

Can purple shampoo fix hot roots?

Using the right purple shampoo can eliminate brassiness and avoid additional damage to your hair from using a permanent color to tone. We often recommend Wella toners for eliminating brass and evening out color.

Why does my hair go ginger when I dye it brown?

To avoid it going ginger or red then you must check what shade you are using. For example if the colour says golden, chocolate, mahogany, red, warm brown etc, these will all look 'ginger'. To achieve a rich colour, a basic shade must be added to create the depth (how dark it is).

Should I dye my roots or ends first?

Apply color to your roots first. Hair that's been previously colored is porous and soaks up color easily, but new growth requires more processing time. Leave color on your roots for the full time and only process ends for half the required time. It'll give you a nice even color from root to tip.

What happens if you put too much developer in hair dye?

What happens if you put too much developer in hair dye? Too much developer added to a hair color formula will dilute the artificial dye molecules, and add too much oxygen to the formula. This will typically display a sheer end result that does not have the depth you may have anticipated.

What is a good substitute for developer?

If you don't have a developer on hand for bleaching, you can use hydrogen peroxide as a substitute. Hydrogen peroxide is a common household item that is often used to disinfect wounds! It can also be used as a bleach substitute because it has similar properties to developer.

What happens if you mix conditioner with developer?

However, Halim warns that combining conditioner with permanent or developer-based dyes can disrupt the chemical reaction and oxidation process needed for permanent color, which may lead to uneven or inconsistent color.

How to make hair dye stronger?

How to make your hair color last longer
  1. Wait at least 72 hours before showering post-treatment. ...
  2. Use color-toning shampoos + conditioners. ...
  3. Stick to color-safe products. ...
  4. Space out your shampoos. ...
  5. Skip the hot water. ...
  6. Max out the moisture. ...
  7. Boost shine and protection with a hair oil. ...
  8. Protect against chemicals and minerals.

What developer to use to cover grey hair?

The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.

Will developer lift hair color?

Developer opens the cuticle of the hair and activates the bleach so that it can lift pigments from the hair. The stronger the developer, the faster it opens the cuticle of the hair.

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