Developer choice going lighter with regular color Use 20 Vol if you are aiming for a 1-2 level lift (and if you have grey hair that needs covering). Use 30 Vol if you are aiming for a 2-3 level lift. Use 40 Vol if you are aiming for a 3 level lift and if the hair is particularly difficult to color.
Select the developer based on the desired end result. For color deposit, correction, glazes and toning applications, reach for Color Touch Emulsion, 1.9% (6 volume). If a subtle brightening, lightening gray coverage or increased vibrancy is desired, select Color Touch Emulsion 4% (13 volume).
The 20 Volume (6%) developer is suitable for lifting the hair color by 1-2 levels and is a common choice for permanent hair color applications. It provides a 2-3 level lift when mixed with bleach, making it effective for transitioning from dark brown to light brown.
40-volume developers, like the Keywest Professional Silver Sand Developer, contain 12% hydrogen peroxide. This concentration allows it to open the hair cuticle more aggressively, lifting natural pigments and making it an ideal choice for significant lightening or bleaching.
40 volume developer is the strongest level of developer, and we do not recommend it for at home use. Even with dark hair, it is easier and safer to do several rounds of lightning with a lower volume developer rather than try to lift your hair an extreme amount in one go with a higher volume developer.
40 volume developer is very strong, so it should not be left on the hair for too long. Typically, you should leave it on for no more than 45 minutes. Over-processing can lead to hair damage, breakage, or unwanted brassy tones. Prior to applying a 40 volume developer, make sure your hair is in good condition.
You cannot lighten your hair without bleach. 40 volumn applied to the hair shaft will open it up and prepare your hair to receive the color. But to lighten your hair correctly you will need bleach.
The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.
The level system is made up of 10 numbers which help determine the depth level of your natural hair. 1 is black, 5 is light brown, 6 is dark blonde, 7 is blonde and 10 is the lightest blonde.
40 Volume. 40 volume developer can be used with permanent hair color and high lift color to give 3-4 levels of lift depending on the power of the color and the texture of the hair. Open-air processing such as balayage is ideal for 40 volume developer as it allows for maximum lift but the control of less heat.
1.9% peroxide concentration provides controlled lift and coverage. Perfect for subtle lightening or enhancing natural tones. Formulated for smooth, even mixing for flawless results. Protects hair integrity while enhancing colour vibrancy.
Selecting the Right Developer Volume
Hair developer uses various percentages of hydrogen peroxide to lift the hair's cuticle layer and deposit color—the higher the peroxide percentage is, the more it lifts and strips the hair. Volume 10 is the weakest developer level, containing only 3% hydrogen peroxide.
10 volume developers contain 3% hydrogen peroxide. These developers are also called no lift developers because they only provide moderate lift to your cuticles, i.e., lift by 1 level. This developer is perfect for when you are going to color your hair a darker color than the natural shade.
Using too much developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a unicorn threw up on your head.
If you have never toned your hair before, it's best to do a strand test first as the results of the treatment will vary depending on your hair's porosity. Leave the toner in for between 5-20 minutes: you can rinse a small section to see when the color has fixed to your liking.
20 Volume Developer: Ideal for one to two levels of lightening and effective for gray coverage. Great for both depositing color and subtle lightening. 30 Volume Developer: Used for lifting color by up to three shades. This is a stronger developer and generally used for more dramatic color changes.
Pigment loss occurs naturally in hair as we age. Along with the changes in pigmentation, grey hairs can also undergo structural changes Grey hair is often also coarser. The outer cuticle layer of greys can be more tightly packed and layered, making them resistant to colour absorption.
Always Use a 20 Volume Developer
Since there is no pigment, there is no need to lift. You just need to open the cuticle enough to deposit the color. If you feel you can get full coverage using a 10 or 15 volume then by all means use a lower volume.
30 Volume (9%) Developer
Although a Volume 30 developer is strong enough to cause scalp irritation in most people, it allows you to achieve a 3-4 level lift with bleach.
Apple cider vinegar is known for its ability to restore the hair's natural pH balance. When used as a rinse, it helps to gently strip away excess dye and product buildup, which can contribute to lightening the hair color over time.
Both permanent and developer-based dyes should not be mixed with conditioner. "There are particular reactions and interactions between the chemicals within them that make these dyes work on the hair," Oxley says.
Step 7: Wash it
Use lukewarm water, too hot or cold of water can shock your hair in its already fragile state. Make sure to completely rinse out the bleach and gently wash your hair to get out all the product.
40 volume hair developer
People choose 40 volume because it's strong enough to lighten even the darkest hair. However, it's also very harsh and can damage the hair if used too often. So, it's best that you be cautious here.
Ideally, you should bleach your hair no more than once every three to eight weeks. All Over Bleaching: When bleaching all-over, Clark recommends waiting until new growth reaches ½ inch and only applying the bleach to new growth.