Well, when it comes right down to it, the choice is really in what you're looking to do for your skin. While vitamin C is incredible for the skin because of its ability to help brighten and improve hyperpigmentation, the best active ingredient for wrinkles is retinol.
First, vitamin C works to help improve the look of dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin. Then, retinol steps in to help improve skin's elasticity. The result is that retinol and other retinoids may help improve skin's texture while helping to minimize the look of fine lines.
While the best vitamin C serums tend to focus on collagen synthesis, skin tone and clarity to shift pigmentation, the best retinol creams speed up cell turnover so can prove helpful in learning how to get rid of acne and for general textural improvements.
It helps fade hyperpigmentation
Vitamin C inhibits melanin synthesis by downregulating the activity of an enzyme known as tyrosinase. It's widely used in dermatology for depigmentation of hyperpigmented spots on the skin.
Retinoids are useful in the treatment of hyperpigmentation because they reduce epidermal melanin by blocking the transcription of tyrosinase, induce desquamation, disperse keratinocyte pigment granules and enhance epidermal cell turnover via epidermopoiesis.
“If the retinol you're using is too strong for your skin causing inflammation, darker skin tones may have a higher risk of discoloration, or hyperpigmentation, from the use of it," she adds. Dr. Icecreamwala recommends starting with a retinol that is 0.3 or 0.5 percent.
Dermatologists consider prescription-strength hydroquinone, alone or combined with other lighteners, to be the gold standard for fading dark spots because it slows the production of pigment.
When vitamin C is exposed to light it becomes unstable, the consequences include irritation, inflammation and acne. All of these can cause post inflammatory pigmentation, leaving you worse off than when you started.
What It Does: This potent antioxidant interferes with the production of pigment in the skin, fading dark spots. When You'll See Results: Once you add vitamin C to your skincare regimen, you may start seeing noticeable improvements in three weeks. It can help significantly fade hyperpigmentation in about two months.
The truth: You can use vitamin C with retinol and retinoids. Get them as separate products so you can tailor the concentration of each and use them at the right time of day. Although vitamin C can be used day or night, it is ideal for daytime use, while retinol and retinoids should be applied at night.
Apply your vitamin C first, since it has the lower pH of the two. Then, wait half an hour before you apply your retinol. Incorporating the waiting period allows your skin's pH to return to normal, so each ingredient can work at its intended pH.
As for selecting the best vitamin C serum, L-ascorbic acid is found to be the most biologically active when compared to ascorbyl-6-palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Additionally, vitamin C topicals that also include vitamin E are more stable and more effective at treating hyperpigmentation.
Use vitamin C for hyperpigmentation caused by melanin and use niacinamide if your skin can't handle vitamin C. Keep in mind this is a very hard and fast rule because they aren't easy to compare without really knowing your skin concerns and skin sensitivity.
It is because Vitamin C is extremely potent but it can easily react with the air, light and heat in the environment to only make your skin appear darker.
Here's what to know. Ever used a vitamin C serum and noticed your skin looking darker, orange or more tanned? You're not alone—this is a known side effect of the popular brightening and anti-aging ingredient!
In this case, turning to dermatological procedures will work as the fastest way to get rid of hyperpigmentation. Chemical peels, laser therapy, microdermabrasion, or dermabrasion are all options that work similarly to rid skin of hyperpigmentation.
According to Ayodele, a chemical peel is also a great way to fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, as "it will help the skin to exfoliate quickly and fade the discolouration." Alpha-hydroxy-acids such as glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid work by dissolving the 'glue' that holds dead skin cells together, revealing ...
Hydroquinone is considered by many to be the gold standard treatment for pigmentation. “Hydroquinone blocks the production of pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase,” explains Dr Jack, adding that it does so in a particularly potent way.
Peer reviewed studies suggest you should consult your doctor if you're not seeing any results by week 12. In patients with sun-damaged skin, improvements in the skin usually are seen within the first 3-4 weeks of treatment. Brown spots begin to fade after 6-8 weeks.
Myth: You'll see results in 4 to 6 weeks
For over-the-counter retinol, it can take up to six months and with tretinoin up to three months for full results to be visible.
They typically cause peeling and redness in the first few weeks of use -- but they actually thicken the skin. For brown spots that give the skin an uneven tone, retinoids slough them off and curb the production of melanin, a darker pigment.
Retinol has similar benefits, but it's stronger than niacinamide. It's also known to cause irritation, redness, and dry skin. Pairing the two ingredients is safe and can make retinol easier to use. Niacinamide helps hydrate the skin, which reduces the risk of irritation caused by retinol.
Both vitamin C and niacinamide increase the natural production of ceramides in your skin which helps to strengthen your skin barrier, keep your skin hydrated, and reduce irritation. However, niacinamide is probably the better option for sensitive skin as it's usually gentler than vitamin C.
Can you use niacinamide with retinol and vitamin C? You can indeed use all three of these ingredients together, but the order in which you layer them play an important role when avoiding skin irritation. To gain optimal results I would suggest using a serum enriched in vitamin C during your morning routine.
Retinoids work best if you use them daily. Specifically, they should be used at night because some types are deactivated by light and air. It's important to start slowly and allow your skin time to adjust. Using too much too quickly can cause redness, dryness, and irritation.