It's crucial to choose the appropriate developer volume based on your client's desired hair colour outcome and the condition of their hair. Higher volume developers can be more damaging to the hair, so it's important to follow the instructions provided with the hair dye or bleach product.
Developer lifts (bleaches) color from the hair and opens the cuticle (makes it more porous) to allow more penetration of the artificial dye. So a stronger developer will simultaneously make your base color lighter and allow your dye to come out brighter. It will also damage your hair more.
20 developer has around 6% peroxide. 30 developer has around 9% peroxide. Either would work. A 30 developer just processes faster. At the salon I was able to bleach my cousins deep dark hair blonde using a 20 developer, it just takes longer you just have to make sure it doesn't dry out and it should be fine.
Levels of Developer
The most common volumes of developer are 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume. The volume relates to the strength of the developer, meaning the higher the number, the stronger the volume. 10 volume developer is commonly used with toners, while 20 and 30 are two of the volumes recommended for at home use.
30 Volume Developers
It is usable and can be used with a lightening scram, a powder, or permanent hair color. It is advisable to stay away from this developer if you are not a hair coloring professional because it contains high concentrations of peroxide and might cause hair damage if not used with care.
Use 10 Volume if you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. If the desired result is keeping color at the same color level by simply adding a tone or a tint, this is exactly what you should mix with. It won't significantly lift your base color and is the least damaging to the hair.
20 Volume Developer: Ideal for one to two levels of lightening and effective for gray coverage. Great for both depositing color and subtle lightening. 30 Volume Developer: Used for lifting color by up to three shades. This is a stronger developer and generally used for more dramatic color changes.
One of the most common questions is: How long to leave 30 volume developer on hair? In general, it's recommended to leave it on for 15–30 minutes, depending on how much lift you're looking for. However, going over this time can cause significant damage.
40 volume developer is very strong, so it should not be left on the hair for too long. Typically, you should leave it on for no more than 45 minutes. Over-processing can lead to hair damage, breakage, or unwanted brassy tones.
Using too much developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a unicorn threw up on your head.
Leave a 20-volume developer on for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the desired lift and product instructions.
30 Volume (9%) Developer
Although a Volume 30 developer is strong enough to cause scalp irritation in most people, it allows you to achieve a 3-4 level lift with bleach.
“Using different developers is key, and a HUGE pro tip to keep the red from going too dark, and old highlights from absorbing too much pigment,” explains Jill, who uses 20 volume on virgin hair, and 25 – 30 volume on previously highlighted hair. The why: Shifting developers depending on porosity is key.
If you use too much developer, it can damage your hair. Another common mistake is not using enough developer. If you don't use enough, the hair dye won't work properly and your color will not be the right shade. Developer is an important part of the hair coloring process, so it's important to get it right.
Dryness and Damage: As mentioned earlier, higher volumes of developers can cause severe damage and dryness. If you use too much hair colour and developer, the excess peroxide can strip your hair of its natural oils, leaving it brittle and prone to breakage.
In general, semi-permanent hair color is less damaging to the hair than permanent hair color, since it does not contain ammonia or bleach. The product may, however, cause some amount of hair damage if it is not used correctly or if it is used on damaged hair.
Developer choice going lighter with regular color
Use 20 Vol if you are aiming for a 1-2 level lift (and if you have grey hair that needs covering). Use 30 Vol if you are aiming for a 2-3 level lift. Use 40 Vol if you are aiming for a 3 level lift and if the hair is particularly difficult to color.
From a strand test, you should also get a better sense of how many sessions you'll need to make the full transition. For example, going from dark brown to light blonde hair may require three to four sessions.
In comparison to other dyes, hair bleaching is a permanent process which cannot be washed away over time. This is because the melanin, which gives your hair its colour, is stripped away from the hair during the bleaching process.
Used for significant lightening, the 40 Volume (12%) developer offers a substantial lift of up to 8 levels, making it perfect for dramatic changes. It is suitable for achieving very light blonde results, but must be handled carefully to prevent damage.
Step 7: Wash it
Use lukewarm water, too hot or cold of water can shock your hair in its already fragile state. Make sure to completely rinse out the bleach and gently wash your hair to get out all the product.
You cannot lighten your hair without bleach. 40 volumn applied to the hair shaft will open it up and prepare your hair to receive the color. But to lighten your hair correctly you will need bleach.
Using a 20-volume developer instead of a 10-volume developer will result in a greater lift and a lighter color outcome. The higher hydrogen peroxide content helps open the hair cuticle more, allowing the color to penetrate deeper and lighten your natural shade.
When to Use 40 Volume Developer. Using 40-volume developer isn't necessary for every hair coloring process. It's typically chosen for: Lightening dark hair: Those with dark brown or black hair may need 40-volume developer to achieve lighter shades in one session.
The developer found in box color ranges between 20 and 40 volume because that is what is needed to cover gray or to change a very dark shade. Frequently coating the hair shaft with a high volume developer will cause damage, particularly if the starting condition is weakened or fragile.