Retinol works for acne by preventing clogged pores. You may still see pimples for the first couple of months of treatment – your skin might even look worse (this is sometimes referred to as the retinol purge). But if you stick with it, you'll see clearer skin.
First-time retinol users have reported irritation, including redness, dryness, and peeling. If you use too high a strength or apply retinol more frequently than you should, you may experience further irritation, like itchiness and scaly patches.
Retinol might not be a fit for those with overly sensitive or hypersensitive skin, those who have food intolerances or high allergic reactions, and young skin, she says. “Caution is necessary when using any vitamin A derivatives and should only be used after advice from your derm or skin care specialist,” Joss says.
New York dermatologist, Dendy Engelman, M.D., explains that the skin gradually adjusts to retinol. "Clinically, we've seen that it takes about three weeks for skin cells to adapt to retinoic acid and begin building their tolerance," says Engelman, which is why some degree of irritation is totally normal early on.
Those with stubborn skin concerns, like deep wrinkles and pronounced uneven skin tone may want to consider a high percentage retinol cream, serum or treatment. But what percentage of retinol is effective? Look for formulations with a percentage between 0.3% and 1%, with retinol 1% being the strongest option.
The telltale signs of retinol burn include skin that is red, irritated, flaky, inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that is not usual for your skin," adds Idriss.
Don't Mix: Retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and AHA/BHA acids. AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating, which can dry out the skin and cause further irritation if your skincare routine already includes retinol.
Regardless of your skin type or which product you use first, a layer of moisturizer should always be applied after retinoids.
Retinol is best applied at night since it can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. When you do go outside, be sure to use sunscreen to protect your face. It's worth noting that you don't need to use retinol on a daily basis for it to effectively treat your acne. Even two to three times per week might be enough.
Engelman agrees: "Retinol is the most potent ingredient that helps build collagen and elastin, which leads to tighter, smoother skin." This mixture has the added bonus of hyaluronic acid, which "can smooth, firm, and tighten the appearance of the skin," Dr. Bowe says.
Use Retinol Only at Night and Wear SPF Every Day
"Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays and sunlight decreases the efficacy of the product," explains Bowe, who instructs patients to only use retinoids at night and be diligent about applying a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day.
Discontinue use if you have negative side effects after a few weeks of use and contact your physician to help reassess your skin type and find a solution that will protect your skin barrier . Consider using moisturizing and soothing topical skin care products with retinol to counteract its negative side effects.
There are no set rules on how old you should be to use retinol. For anti-aging purposes, you can start preventatively in your 20s. While over-the-counter retinol can help mild acne, many people with breakouts will need a prescription.
If you used products with potent actives such as retinols or strong acids on your skin overnight, we recommend that you cleanse your face in the morning as a precaution.
Most people who introduce retinol to their skin, experience severe breakouts, dryness, itchiness, and redness. The immediate side effects of retinol treatment can take the form of a surge in acne, blackheads, whiteheads, and rashes. This is termed retinol purging.
Before continuing with the next step of your routine, you should allow 20 minutes or more. It is okay to use other products afterwards, but allow enough time for the vitamin A to be absorbed. Hence, for your question, how long after retinol to apply moisturizer, the answer is 20 minutes.
First, the answer is yes, retinol can make wrinkles worse, especially when you first start using it. What is happening is a drying effect, and one can get epidermal sliding from separation from the dermis.
Yes, you can use hyaluronic acid with retinol together and it's perfectly safe to do so. In fact, using hyaluronic acid with retinol has synergistic effect on your skin because they complement each other.
Mix With Peptides
Mariwalla says it's a great idea to use both a retinoid- and peptide-based night cream at bedtime. "You get the collagen-building effects of the retinoid, but it also works to improve the penetration of the peptide cream, which can help improve skin's firmness," she explains.
Why it might not be working: The truth is, retinol can be too active for some people. “It's too strong [for some people],” Jaliman says. You could also be using too high of a percentage. What to try instead: If retinol is too intense for your skin, try bakuchiol, a natural alternative.
In theory, retinol makes your skin cell turnover faster. The increased cell turnover temporarily sloughs off more dead skin cells. This creates a lag time before new, healthy cells come to the surface of your skin. Your new skin is exposed before it's ready, and redness or discoloration, and irritation is the result.
Should you use retinol under your eyes? Yes, definitely. While it is true that retinol – a form of vitamin A – is a powerful ingredient and the skin under your eyes is delicate, there's no reason why you should miss out on the amazing benefits of retinol.
There's no problem with using both retinol and vitamin C as part of your skincare routine, dermatologists say. In fact, Shirazi calls this combo a "power couple" when it comes to aging well.
What does retinol do for your skin? Retinol increases skin cell production (proliferation). It helps unclog pores. Retinol also exfoliates your skin and increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a fresher, plump appearance.