If you add too much developer you may not get as much lift (if you are going lighter) and the actual color will be diluted and not as deep especially if you got the ratios off significantly. If you are covering gray it may not cover as well because of the pigment dilution.
Diluted color: Using an excessive amount of developer can dilute the color in the hair dye mixture (1). This means that the resulting color may be lighter or less vibrant than intended. If you were aiming for a specific shade, adding too much developer can lead to a less intense or faded color outcome.
Hair dye volumes refer to the strength of the developer, which impacts the level of color lift. A 10 Volume developer provides minimal lift, perfect for depositing color. A 20 Volume developer lifts hair by 1-2 levels, while a 30 Volume developer lifts by 2-3 levels.
Using a 20-volume developer instead of a 10-volume developer will result in a greater lift and a lighter color outcome. The higher hydrogen peroxide content helps open the hair cuticle more, allowing the color to penetrate deeper and lighten your natural shade.
20 volume is the cutoff point for permanent hair color. So permanent color is 20 volume or higher. 20 volume lifts a MAX of two levels. 30 volume lifts a MAX of 3 levels and 40 volume lifts a maximum of 4 levels. All these developers can be used with permanent hair color.
Permanent hair dyes often call for 30 volume developer, especially when you're trying to achieve a vibrant color. This developer helps open the hair cuticle and allows the color to penetrate more deeply, resulting in longer-lasting results.
When you need a more significant lift in hair color, opt for a 30 Volume (9%) Developer. It lifts hair by 2-3 levels, making it suitable for achieving medium to lighter shades from darker bases.
Higher volumes of developer are used for darker and thicker hair types, while lower volumes are recommended for lighter or more delicate hair.
If your client's hair is dark blonde/light brown (level 5-6), aim at around 30 minutes using 30 Vol developer. If your client's hair is brown/dark brown (level 4-5), aim at around around 30-40 minutes using 30 Vol developer with fresh mix added in during processing time.
If your hair is brown, you may need to bleach it more than once before you apply the grey dye. It's important you get your hair as light as possible before you attempt to turn it grey – this will help ensure a more even tone and vibrant, all-over colour.
The developer found in box color ranges between 20 and 40 volume because that is what is needed to cover gray or to change a very dark shade. Frequently coating the hair shaft with a high volume developer will cause damage, particularly if the starting condition is weakened or fragile.
The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.
Use 10 Volume if you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. If the desired result is keeping color at the same color level by simply adding a tone or a tint, this is exactly what you should mix with. It won't significantly lift your base color and is the least damaging to the hair.
Most hair coloring instructions will specify a developer-to-color ratio, often 1:1 or 1:2. For instance, if the instructions call for a 1:2 ratio, you'll need one part of hair color and two parts of the developer.
Higher volume developers can be more damaging to the hair, so it's important to follow the instructions provided with the hair dye or bleach product.
The difference between the volumes of developers is that 20 volume gives 2 shades of lift, and 30 gives 3 shades of lift.
Step 7: Wash it
Use lukewarm water, too hot or cold of water can shock your hair in its already fragile state. Make sure to completely rinse out the bleach and gently wash your hair to get out all the product.
Wait and Process: Follow the recommended processing time on your hair dye instructions, usually 30-45 minutes. Remember, leaving the color on longer won't necessarily make it more effective and can risk damage.
Using too much developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a unicorn threw up on your head.
Whatever strength you use, the mix should always stay the same. People sometimes think they can put in more developer to achieve greater lift. Not true. You can add in a little more developer if you want a runnier mix in order to work fast.
Always Use a 20 Volume Developer
Gray hair tends to be resistant and typically takes longer to grab hold of the hair.
Various model analyses show an interaction between hair color and tip earnings. It is documented, both statistically and economically, that non-blonde Caucasian females earn significantly more tips after dying their hair blonde in a real world work setting.
Hair developer is important because it helps to ensure that your hair color is long-lasting and uniform. Without it, your hair color would be more likely to fade quickly and be patchy. Without developer, you are not maximizing the impact and effectiveness of your hair dye.