How often should I exfoliate? Twice daily – that's the aim, according to Kellett and Dr. David Orentreich, a dermatologist at Clinique. "It's better to exfoliate twice a day using mild or moderate exfoliation than to exfoliate once a week with an extremely harsh process," says Orentreich.
“Generally, skin should be exfoliated only one to two times per week to help expedite skin cell turnover without causing damage.” Yup, one to two times per week. If you've been slathering on the exfoliating acids daily, there's a good chance your skin is begging for a break.
Can you use more than one exfoliant at a time? You can, but pay attention to how your skin reacts. It's best to start off with one product and then add on a second if you feel your skin needs more. If you do use two at once, choose gentle options that are less likely to irritate.
When it comes to morning versus night exfoliation, you're going to reap the best benefits from exfoliating in the morning time. This is due to the oils your skin produces overnight. You'll be able to more smoothly remove all impurities, dead skin, and oils, when you exfoliate in the morning, rather than at night.
"Over-exfoliating can cause chronic skin irritation and inflammation, which can lead to accelerated aging," dermatologist Elizabeth Tanzi added. If you have been exfoliating every day, but notice that your skin gets inflamed afterward, know that could lead to wrinkles.
DON'T rinse off a chemical exfoliant
After exfoliating, don't wash it off right away - the active ingredients take time to absorb into your skin and work their magic! Leave your exfoliant on for about 15-30 minutes to ensure the ingredients dissolve and remove all dead skin cells.
For example, Palm warns against using an exfoliant more than once per week for folks with a balanced skin type (and recommends using only physical exfoliants that have a very fine and gentle texture). Those who have combination or oily skin can exfoliate “up to three times weekly,” according to Marchbein.
Exfoliate in the Morning
Though any time of day will work, exfoliating in the morning is ideal because the skin repairs itself at night,2 potentially leaving a layer of dead skin cells just begging to be sloughed off.
According to dermatologists, you should exfoliate first, then wash your hair, and then wash your body. This will ensure that each shower product you use has time to work. If you have concerns about your skin, you should follow this order as closely as you can. This will help prevent acne, razor burn, or dry hair.
By cleansing first you help removing dirt, sweat and make up off skin's surface. You are then working with a clean base to then exfoliate away dead skin cells that can pile up on skin's surface. Exfoliating can soften your skin and allows a fresh layer of skin cells to emerge as dead skin cells are washed away.
If you use a scrub or chemical exfoliator, apply the product gently using small, circular motions. Do this for about 30 seconds, and then rinse off with lukewarm — not hot — water. If you use a brush or sponge, use short light strokes. Never exfoliate if you have open cuts or wounds or if your skin is sunburned.
If you have dry skin, you'll probably see the best results by exfoliating two to three times each week with a product that contains moisturizing oils as well as sloughing ingredients. Those with sensitive skin should opt for one weekly exfoliation and use gentler ingredients.
Whether your acne is mild or more severe, regular exfoliation will smooth and soften the skin and brighten your complexion. It also helps reduce breakouts by keeping the pores from becoming clogged with the pus of dead cells and sebum (skin oil).
Typically, exfoliating does not cause acne. In fact, in most cases, exfoliating can help minimize acne when performed properly as part of an acne treatment program. Beware though, if exfoliating is done improperly or too often, it can bring on problems. If you use a scrub, use as directed and be gentle.
Over-exfoliated skin can become so vulnerable and damaged that it can be easily inflamed. This inflammation can then escalate into an acne breakout. Using too much exfoliant also removes too much of the surface layer of the skin, taking away with it all the trapped moisture.
Your skin feels like crepe paper
When you are over-exfoliating, you are scrubbing away healthy skin cells and lipids that help your skin retain its natural hydration levels. If your skin feels flaky and fine lines suddenly become more visible, that's a sure sign your skin doesn't retain sufficient moisture.
You can make small, circular motions using your finger to apply a scrub or use your exfoliating tool of choice. If you use a brush, make short, light strokes. Exfoliate for about 30 seconds and then rinse off with lukewarm — not hot — water. Avoid exfoliating if your skin has cuts, open wounds, or is sunburned.
Regardless of the formula, apply your toner or serum after cleansing, preferably at night, since exfoliating can make your complexion sun-sensitive. Stick with gel or foaming cleansers rather than oils and balms, which leave a residue that can prevent toners from absorbing, says Mattioli.
Apply Moisturizers
While one exfoliation won't completely strip your skin of all of its oil, it will remove most of it, leaving the surface dry. Therefore, exfoliating without applying a good moisturizer is guaranteed to leave the face drier than it was before exfoliation.
Your skin needs moisture, especially after you exfoliate. Using a super-hydrating facial moisturizer after you exfoliate helps replenish any moisture loss from exfoliating.
The best time to exfoliate
If you tend to wear makeup throughout the day, it may be better to exfoliate at night, Dr. Gonzalez says. “Exfoliating at night helps clear out makeup and dirt on the skin,” she says. Exfoliating at night also removes oil and debris from the day.
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Once or twice a week is great, but everyday exfoliation is even better. Clinique Derm Pro Dr. Michelle Henry gives us her top five reasons to exfoliate daily. Once or twice a week is great, but everyday exfoliation is even better.
Overdoing exfoliation, or mixing different physically-based with chemical exfoliants can cause over-exfoliation, leaving your skin sore, bruised, red and irritated. Signs of over-exfoliation include excessive smoothness and shine of your skin, redness, peeling and flaking, and sometimes even an acne inflammation.
So, does vitamin C exfoliate skin? Unlike exfoliants that can chemically (AHAs) or physically (face scrubs) remove dead skin cells, the answer to “does vitamin C exfoliate skin?” is no. But it does promote healthy cellular turnover and the production of new skin cells, which is beneficial for proper exfoliation.
You can test this yourself with a well formulated exfoliant: at night, apply your AHA or BHA as usual after cleansing and toning, and do a "split-test." Wait 20 minutes before applying your serum and/or moisturizer to one side, but the other side of your face, apply those next steps immediately.