Note: it is possible to have purging AND irritation. APPEARANCE: A purge can look like whiteheads and blackheads, but it should not look like tiny red bumps—that's a sign of irritation, not purging. If you're experiencing dry patches or stinging / sensitive skin, that's a sign of irritation.
Signs of Skin Barrier Damage
Dry, Flaky Skin: A healthy skin barrier retains moisture and maintains a balanced hydration level. Damage can lead to moisture loss, resulting in skin that appears dry, flaky, and sometimes peels, revealing an inability to retain water.
The blemishes caused by purging are usually smaller, come to a head quicker and heal faster. Breakouts, however, can vary widely in appearance, including blackheads, whiteheads, deeper cystic spots or hormonal acne along the jawline. They might heal slowly and can range in size and severity.
Purging of the skin can trigger mild to moderate redness and irritation. The skin's barrier may temporarily weaken, leading to a sensitized appearance. However, ongoing redness and severe irritation may indicate an allergic reaction to the product.
Dry, Scaly Skin: A weakened skin barrier struggles to retain moisture, leading to dryness and flakiness. Your skin may feel rough and lack its natural smoothness. Itchiness: With a compromised barrier, irritants can penetrate the skin more easily, triggering itching sensations that can be quite bothersome.
However, if the damage is extreme, healing your skin barrier could take up to six months.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) can help improve the skin's protective barrier by stimulating the synthesis of ceramides within the skin. Ceramides are important components of the skin and help maintain strong bonds between the cells to help strengthen the natural skin barrier.
Increased Sensitivity to Products: Products that previously worked well for your skin now cause stinging, burning, or increased redness. Breakouts and Acne: When the skin barrier is impaired, bacteria and other impurities can penetrate more easily, leading to breakouts and acne.
Skin purging can show itself as red bumps, whiteheads and blackheads on the face. In addition, it causes dead skin cells to surface, which results in flakiness and dryness. These signs can also indicate your skin is getting accustomed to a product.
In the long run, skin purging helps us shed dead skin cells more effectively which reduces pore-clogging build-up and breakouts, and it does settle down after a few weeks. But you do have to buckle in and ride out a few weeks of discomfort to see the best results.
Breakouts often appear more sporadic in your usual problem spots. Purging often results in whiteheads and small raised red bumps on the skin, known as papules. True breakouts are more likely to induce nodules or cysts - larger, swollen, painful pimples that feel like knots under the skin.
If the skin purging stage is really troublesome, it can be helpful to decrease the frequency of your actives by alternating days of use. Stick with it - in time, things will likely improve. When the frequency of new spots starts to reduce, increase the frequency of your actives again.
Dr. Beth McLellan recommends sticking with a product that is known to cause purging but not breakouts, such as a leave-on exfoliant that contains 1–2% salicylic acid. Over time, the blackheads and bumps should improve. If they don't you may need to add prescription or over-the-counter acne products to your regimen (6).
A classic sign of a broken skin barrier is an inability to hold on to moisture. Skin that's dry and flaky despite your best efforts is one example of how this might manifest. Your skin might also peel away or look patchy.
Chemical exfoliants or acne treatments can contribute to a damaged skin barrier, especially if overused. Think retinoids (like retinol or Tretinoin), AHAs, and BHAs. If these actives are used at too high of a concentration or too frequently, they can irritate your skin and compromise the skin barrier.
It's constantly being repaired,” Dr. Gmyrek says. “There are a variety of self-repair mechanisms at play, including an increase in production of lipids such as ceramides and an increase in natural moisturizing factors, which help maintain moisture and reduce water loss,” she explains.
For those of us who do suffer from purging, it can look like: breaking out in pustules (pimples), the appearance of flaky, peeling skin, irritation and dry patches. Getting these symptoms can be demotivating, especially if you're already feeling unconfident about your skin.
Acids, vitamin C serums and retinoids can all cause purging. Purging is an initial acne breakout that can occur when you're starting a new active skincare product—one that causes your skin cells to turn over more quickly.
It can happen after using excellent products but, equally, it also frequently occurs when the skin barrier is compromised before starting with a product or treatment. The risk of purging can be reduced if you first repair the barrier function, then slowly start the treatment or introduce the product.”
A damaged skin barrier can usually heal itself within two weeks, depending on the damage, but only if you stop all exfoliators (even acids and retinoids) and switch to gentle, soothing products instead, says Dr. Tomassian.
Using too many products or harsh ingredients can damage the skin barrier and lead to dryness, irritation, and inflammation. Stick to a simple routine that includes a gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturizer, and sunscreen. If you have a skin condition, follow your treatment plan as directed by your doctor.
Niacinamide-containing foods or supplements are safe when taken in doses lower than 35 mg daily. Niacinamide is possibly safe when taken in doses up to 900-1500 mg daily. It might cause side effects such as stomach upset, gas, dizziness, headache, and rash.
“Reintroduce one active at a time (for example, use retinoids for a few weeks before adding a vitamin C or liquid exfoliator back in), but if you have chronic skin barrier dysfunction, you should always opt for more gentle actives,” says Dr. Sommerlad.