If your hair is untreated, no bleaching is required. Instead, permanent hair dye can both lift and deposit color. However, once your hair has been color treated, permanent color will only deposit more pigment. In other words, “color doesn't lift color.”
pH Levels: The pH level of your hair can influence color absorption. If your hair is too alkaline or too acidic, it may resist color. Hair Health: If your hair is overly damaged or has buildup from products, it may not take color well.
Pigment loss occurs naturally in hair as we age. Along with the changes in pigmentation, grey hairs can also undergo structural changes Grey hair is often also coarser. The outer cuticle layer of greys can be more tightly packed and layered, making them resistant to colour absorption.
Bleach Strength and Processing Time: The strength of the bleach and the amount of time it is left on the hair can affect the final color. If the bleach is too weak or not left on long enough, it may not lift the hair to the desired level of blonde, leading to yellow tones.
Silver Shampoo, which can also be called purple shampoo, is a shampoo with violet pigments. The violet pigments neutralize the yellow tones in your hair. By using a silver shampoo, you will get rid of brassy, yellow, and golden tones.
Repeated bleaching is not recommended since you're putting yourself at risk of overprocessing and breakage. If you do bleach again, make sure to wait 3 weeks to give your hair cuticle enough time to heal, close and lay flat again.
The Science Behind Hair Color Absorption
If it's too closed or damaged, dye can't penetrate well. Healthy hair with an open cuticle layer will soak up color better, giving you that vibrant look. The pH level and the porosity of your hair also affect how well it takes color.
Final answer: Hair that is resistant to color and has a tight cuticle is characterized as having low porosity. Porosity defines the hair's ability to absorb and hold moisture, with low porosity hair being more resistant to chemical treatments.
"Specifically, oestrogen, progesterone and cortisol can all play a part in the changes to hair colour – but oestrogen is the main factor in determining the higher content of melanins called eumelanin and pheomelanin in female hair.
“Your hair did not take the color because it was: dirty, needed clarifying, the color had already oxidized, developer was bad, you did not leave it on long enough to fully process.”
If you tried to lighten your hair but the end result was a brassy orange colour, there's a good chance you're a brunette. Darker hair is made up of several underlying pigments which give your brown, dark brown or black hair depth and dimension, and red and orange are the most dominant undertones.
The vinegar actually helps the hair dye to remain bonded to the hair, according to my awesome stylist Viviane of Marina Beach Hair.
Our favorite color-depositing conditioner is the dpHue Gloss+ thanks to its wide range of shades, easy application, and ability to soften and hydrate hair. For a clear gloss that adds shine to any hair color, we recommend the Pureology Color Fanatic Top Coat + Sheer.
Use Hair Lightener or Toner
Hair lighteners or toners are great for lifting darker shades and achieving a lighter shade. Apply the toner or hair lightener to your hair according to the product's instructions. Rinse it out once you've reached your desired color.
Both protein (keratin) and moisture are essential components of healthy hair—if they're missing, your hair color could fade quickly. If hair is in poor condition (we're looking at you split ends), a protein or moisturizing treatment may be needed before you color.
Red hair is notoriously difficult when it comes to upkeep. While it's the hardest color to fully strip from your hair, it's also the first to fade, often lightening drastically within the first few washes. So unless you're wanting to touch-up your own color at home, it would be wise to skip the scarlet shades.
What Not To Do Before Dyeing Your Hair. Along with washing your hair right before dyeing it, avoid applying any styling products, like dry shampoo or leave-in conditioners.
Low porosity hair doesn't absorb product
Because the cuticles are so tight, products including creams, oils and water-based formulas, tend to sit on top of the hair instead of being absorbed.
It Can Make Semi-Permanent Hair Dye More Vibrant
Since semi-permanent hair color (and demi-permanent hair color) isn't formulated with peroxide, it can be beneficial to use it on wet hair. This will open up the cuticles of the hair shaft and allow the color to absorb better into wet strands.
Blonde blends better with grey
Grey hair in blonde hair or grey roots in blonde hair blends better than with darker hair. So blonde is a good choice if you want to make your grey hair or grey roots less noticeable.
Just as a purple shampoo neutralises brassy tones on blondes, using a blue shampoo on brown hair neutralises orange and red tones for brunettes.
Unless it's a multiple processing situation (ideally being handled by a professional), you shouldn't bleach over hair that's already been bleached. Instead, you should target new growth. Clark says,“If you bleach your hair roots to ends every time, you risk it breaking and becoming damaged.