Skin purging, if you don't know, is a process in which your skin breaks out when you try a new skincare product. Some products, such as Niacinamide and Retinol, accelerate the skin turnover process and can cause purging. This only means that pimples that would pop out sooner or later, come out all seemingly at once.
Skin purging is an initial bout of acne that can occur when you start using a new, active skincare product that increases your cell turnover. Certain topical ingredients, such as acids and retinoids, make you shed dead skin cells at a faster rate than normal.
It's normal for your skin to purge when you use a product with a chemical exfoliator, such as AHA's and BHA's.
Chemical exfoliants can also cause a purging effect, including alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy-acids (BHAs). For example, products like The Ordinary's fantastic AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution.
After applying an active exfoliant to the skin, it loosens up the congestion deep within pores and pushes it toward the surface of the skin -- causing what looks like a breakout but is actually just your skin going through a cycle.
Because BHA is oil-soluble, it exfoliates not only on the surface of skin, but also inside the pore lining. That kind of exfoliation can trigger a mass exodus of inflammatory substances and oil that, under certain conditions, can create more breakouts.
Generally speaking, dermatologists say purging should be over within four to six weeks of starting a new skin care regimen. If your purge lasts longer than six weeks, consult your dermatologist.
While AHAs love water, BHAs love oil. They can bypass the oil that clogs pores and dissolve the mix of sebum and dead skin that leads to acne, as well as stabilize the lining of the pore (which contributes to acne). BHAs clear up blackheads, whiteheads, and have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Skin purging typically looks like tiny red bumps on the skin that are painful to touch. They are often accompanied by whiteheads or blackheads. It can also cause your skin to become flaky. The flare ups caused by purging have a shorter lifespan than a breakout.
“Purging is neither good nor bad. It can happen after using excellent products but, equally, it also frequently occurs when the skin barrier is compromised prior to starting with a product or treatment.
Though some people do report experiencing irritation and breakouts after using the ingredient, niacinamide is unlikely to cause purging.
Most niacinamide products also contain a variety of other ingredients. If any of these ingredients increase skin cell turnover then they may be behind any 'purging'. Some ingredients can also be 'comedogenic' which means that they are more likely to clog pores and cause breakouts.
The duration of skin purging can vary, but it should not last any longer than six weeks, says Michele Green, MD, a cosmetic dermatologist with a private practice. This is because after six weeks your skin should become used to the ingredients in the product that caused the purge.
Typically, exfoliating does not cause acne. In fact, in most cases, exfoliating can help minimize acne when performed properly as part of an acne treatment program. Beware though, if exfoliating is done improperly or too often, it can bring on problems. If you use a scrub, use as directed and be gentle.
A sulfate-free cleanser, a skin calming moisturiser and a physical sunscreen during the day should treat the problem soon and take your skin back to its healthy and clear state. Also, during this time continue the product that's making your skin purge, don't worry it won't get worse.
The Ordinary AHA + BHA Peeling Solution is ideal for combination, oily and acne-prone skin types. The combo of glycolic and lactic acids fully exfoliate the outer layers of the skin, while the salicylic acid goes deeper into the pores.
Yes, you can use this product after using the AHA/BHA peel. With the peel, ensure you apply to freshly cleansed and dry skin and leave on for absolutely NO more than 10 minutes-5 if it's your first time.
As it contains very high concentration of free acids, it is recommended to be used only if you are an experienced user of acid exfoliation and your skin is not sensitive. It is advised that it should not be used on sensitive, peeling, broken or compromised skin.
Skin purging occurs when you start using a new product that contains chemical exfoliants such as alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and retinoids, all of which speed up the rate of skin cell turnover (the rate at which you shed dead skin cells and replace them with new cells), says Dr. Gonzalez.
Purging is a sign that the product is working and you should continue with the treatment as prescribed. After a few weeks of purging, your skin and acne will have noticeably improved. Breaking out is when your skin is reacting because it is sensitive to something in the new product.
Retinoids such as Tretinoin, acids such as salicylic, and benzoyl peroxide are just a few of the products that cause purging. These products contain active ingredients that increase the skin cell turnover rate, therefore causing your skin to purge.
Medicated cleansers, such as those containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, can sting if used after a chemical peel. Instead, use a gentle cleanser like Cetaphil or Dove for a few days, or until your skin heals.
These “can cause an increase in skin cell turnover which can lead to purging—a breakout of spots in areas where you would normally get acne. However, hyaluronic acid does not increase skin cell turnover; it's purely a hydrating skincare ingredient.” In short, hyaluronic acid isn't to blame for any breakouts.
Occasionally, though, serums can actually cause acne—so proceed with caution. "They can lead to breakouts—especially if you're using the wrong one for your skin type," says Green.