Hydroquinone is the gold standard of lightening ingredients as it aids in cell turnover, which reduces the appearance of the discoloration over time, says Kwan. ``It is much more potent in inhibiting (tyrosinase),'' he says. ``By inhibiting this pigment formation, dark marks get lighter.''
[5–7] Hydroquinone is considered the gold standard for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. It is commonly used at concentrations of 2-4%. Clinical studies report well to excellent responses induced by 2% hydroquinone. Higher concentrations are effective but can cause irritation.
Azelaic Acid's Superpowers
Evens out skin tone: Azelaic acid takes the spotlight when it comes to reducing redness and hyperpigmentation. It's the backstage crew that ensures the show goes on without any uneven tone or blemishes.
Hydroquinone. Topical HQ is regarded as the gold standard for the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation. HQ is a bleaching agent that acts by inhibiting tyrosinase to limit melanin production in the skin.
Both ingredients can fade hyperpigmentation and increase collagen production. Vitamin C (depending on the percentage) can be more harsh for sensitive skin types. Or, you might want to use niacinamide if you have acne-prone skin, and leverage Vitamin C for fading post-acne marks and dark spots.
One chemical exfoliant that Dr. Pierre recommends for dark spots is glycolic acid, which is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps dissolve and shed the "glue" between dead, discolored skin cells, leaving you with a clearer, brighter, all-around glowier face.
Vitamins can be used to lighten your skin and lighten dark spots. Three of the best vitamins for lightening dark spots are vitamin C, vitamin B12, and vitamin E. Vitamin C helps your skin produce more collagen while inhibiting the formation of melanin.
Kojic acid
Kojic acid has skin-lightening properties that can help reduce the appearance of dark patches associated with melasma. It inhibits the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color10.
If OTC remedies aren't helping, it's time to call in the pros. Dermatologists consider products with hydroquinone, alone or combined with other lighteners, to be the gold standard for fading dark spots because it slows the production of pigment.
As such, Kojic acid may be better for general pigmentation concerns and overall skin brightening. On the other hand, Tranexamic acid skincare is specifically beneficial for hyperpigmentation linked to inflammatory conditions like melasma and post acne marks.
Does niacinamide help hyperpigmentation? Yes, niacinamide has been shown to help visibly lighten areas of hyperpigmentation. It can reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone, resulting in a more even-looking complexion.
The choice should come down to what you're looking to do for your skin. While vitamin C is most notable for helping to brighten and improve hyperpigmentation, retinol is typically considered best-in-class for wrinkles and fine lines.
The misconception that you shouldn't use niacinamide and vitamin C together originates from outdated studies conducted in the 1960s. These early studies suggested that combining these ingredients could render them ineffective or cause skin irritation due to the instability of vitamin C in certain formulations.
Try: A skin-lightening ingredient like hydroquinone or cysteamine hydrochloride. Hydroquinone has been used for decades to help lighten dark spots. It's recommended for those who have stubborn melasma—you probably don't need hydroquinone if you have mild hyperpigmentation, says Dr.
Glycolic acid has now become one of the most recommended skincare ingredients for hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and dullness treatment. If you are in search of the best serum for hyperpigmentation, you can choose the one that comes with glycolic acid.
If you want to get rid of dark spots fast, a procedure that removes layers of discolored skin may work better than a lightening cream. These techniques include laser treatments, freezing (cryotherapy), dermabrasion, microdermabrasion, microneedling, and chemical peels.
Salicylic acid is one of the best acids for hyperpigmentation. It contains anti-inflammatory effects that help with post-acne pigmentation. It is an exfoliating agent that removes dark spots and acne-causing bacteria along with dead skin cells that can lead to pigmentation.
AHAs: Most experts caution against using AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) with azelaic acid, since the combination can increase skin sensitivity and make skin red, irritated and scaly. BHAs: BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids), such as salicylic acid, can also increase sensitivity when combined with azelaic acid.
You should expect to see some improvement quite quickly - in 6 weeks or so, things should start to look better. But for clearance of pigmentation, you may well be looking at 6 months +, for issues like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in acne in those with melanated skin.