Using too much developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a unicorn threw up on your head.
Over-processing: Too much developer can cause the hair dye to over-process, which means it stays on the hair for too long. This can result in damage to the hair, making it dry, brittle, and prone to breakage (1). Over-processed hair may also lose its natural shine and become dull.
It's a good chance that less developer will not allow the color to attach correctly and the color will simply slide off after a wash or three. But if you use too much developer it can water the color down and leave holes in your cuticle which is essentially super damaging.
Developer lifts (bleaches) color from the hair and opens the cuticle (makes it more porous) to allow more penetration of the artificial dye. So a stronger developer will simultaneously make your base color lighter and allow your dye to come out brighter. It will also damage your hair more.
Higher volume developers can be more damaging to the hair, so it's important to follow the instructions provided with the hair dye or bleach product.
For a more intense color, opt for a 1:1 ratio—equal parts of color and developer. If you want a more diluted shade or need to cover gray hair effectively, a 1:2 ratio—one part color to two parts developer—is recommended.
Should I Use 20 or 30 Volume Developer Hair Color? The choice between a 20 and 30 Volume developer hinges on your desired lift. A 20 Volume developer provides a lift of 1-2 levels, which is great for subtle changes and gray coverage. For a more significant lift of 2-3 levels, opt for a 30 Volume developer.
If your hair is brown, you may need to bleach it more than once before you apply the grey dye. It's important you get your hair as light as possible before you attempt to turn it grey – this will help ensure a more even tone and vibrant, all-over colour.
By adding developer to your semi-permanent hair color, you can expect the following benefits: Enhanced Vibrancy: As mentioned before, the addition of developer helps the color molecules penetrate deeper into the hair shaft, resulting in a more vibrant and intense color.
The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.
Using a 20-volume developer instead of a 10-volume developer will result in a greater lift and a lighter color outcome. The higher hydrogen peroxide content helps open the hair cuticle more, allowing the color to penetrate deeper and lighten your natural shade.
Color Activation: Developer contains hydrogen peroxide, which opens the hair cuticle. This allows the color pigments to penetrate deeply, ensuring long-lasting and vibrant results. Without a developer, the hair cuticle remains closed, meaning the dye won't properly bond with your hair strands.
Leaving hair dye in too long can lead to hair damage, breakage, and overly dark or unexpected color results. In the worst-case scenario, it might even lead to hair loss. So, it's generally not recommended to keep that dye in for longer than the instructions tell you to.
20 volume hair developer
It won't lighten your hair much, but it will help the hair dye to better penetrate the hair shaft and result in longer-lasting, more vibrant color. 20 volume developer is also a good option if you're looking to cover up some gray hair.
The One-Hour Rule for Mixed Dye
⏳ Once you've mixed it with the developer, aim to use the magic potion within an hour.
Using a non-metallic bowl, mix 2 oz. of ion Color Brilliance with 2 oz. of ion Sensitive Scalp Creme Developer. Mixing ratio 1:1. Mixing ratio for High Lift shades is 1:2. Use a tint brush to apply the mixture to dry unwashed hair.
Using too much developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a unicorn threw up on your head.
It's generally safe to mix conditioner with semi-permanent or direct dyes because they coat the hair's surface rather than altering its color through a chemical reaction.
Pick a lighter hair colour
A lighter colour will then look better. Your hair follicles produce less pigment as you're turning older. If there's no more pigment being produced in the hair follicles, your hair turns pigmentless.
A blue shampoo or conditioning gloss can help to banish brassy tones and keep your ash brown hair smoky and cool. Like with any dyed hair, you should use a gentle, color-safe shampoo to avoid stripping the color from your strands.
Hair developer uses various percentages of hydrogen peroxide to lift the hair's cuticle layer and deposit color—the higher the peroxide percentage is, the more it lifts and strips the hair. Volume 10 is the weakest developer level, containing only 3% hydrogen peroxide.
30 volume developer has a high concentration of peroxide, which can lift the hair color by up to three levels. This means it can lighten the hair significantly, making it suitable for transitioning from darker shades to lighter ones.
Mix the Dye and Developer: The most common mixing ratio for 20 volume developer is 1:1 with permanent hair color. For example, if you're using 50 ml of dye, mix it with 50 ml of 20 volume developer. Make sure the mixture is smooth.
Always Use a 20 Volume Developer
Gray hair tends to be resistant and typically takes longer to grab hold of the hair. Since there is no pigment, there is no need to lift. You just need to open the cuticle enough to deposit the color.