A 1.9% developer will offer a gentle toning lift and is best when used with foils. A 3%/10V developer is better for intense results on a full-head coloring while adding a tint on the same lightness level as your color. To apply, mix the toner and developer with a 1:2 ratio and leave on for 45 minutes.
10 is the max you should use to tone. I'm a stylist and I use an even lower developer to tone. Toning is deposit only, meaning no lift. 20 vol will open the cuticle more than 10, which is why it will lift the hair. 20 will create more damage and usually make your toner not last as long too.
20 volume developer is what is required when mixing Wella Colorcharm toners and dyes; and you can experiment when you do a strand test with bleach applications between a 20 and 30 volume developer. Good luck, please keep us updated with results and your experience with the process!
Comments452 If your hair after bleaching is an orange tone, you use wella T14 (blue base). If your hair is more of a yellow tone after bleaching, use wella T18 (purple/violet base). If you put T14 on yellow hair, it will turn slightly green.
You only need a 10 volume for toner 20 is acceptable. But 30-40 will damage your hair i highly suggest not using especially because toner is essentially just coating your hair to cancel out an existing color.
The choice between a 20 and 30 Volume developer hinges on your desired lift. A 20 Volume developer provides a lift of 1-2 levels, which is great for subtle changes and gray coverage. For a more significant lift of 2-3 levels, opt for a 30 Volume developer.
20 Vol Developer will lighten your hair slightly and will give permanent results. Use this with Wella Colour Charm Permanent Toners, along with Shimmer Lights Toners and Lightener. Keep in mind, as 20 Vol Developer lightens your hair slightly, it can cause brassiness at your roots (if they're darker than your lengths).
If your bleached hair looks more yellow than orange, you'll need a purple toning shampoo to neutralise the yellow. If your hair's turned orange, you'll need a blue toning shampoo to tone the brassiness and get rid of the orange.
For creating the most ashy blonde.
This toner is for you if you hate even the slightest bit of warmth. Wella T14 has a blue-violet base, which means it will counteract (or reduce) gold / yellow orange tones. This is a super cool toned toner that works best on pale yellow hair.
WELLA T18 TO FIX YELLOW TONES
Wella T18 is packed with purple pigments, which will neutralise those yellow tones and leave you with an icy blonde result. The Wella T18 Toner is the only toner of the range that's purple based and it's the most powerful at combatting yellow tones.
Make sure your hair has been lifted to the desired color
Toning hair before it has reached the correct lightness means the toner won't be as effective. It will just result in a waste of product. It would be such a bummer to not get your correct shade so make sure your hair is light enough for toner to work.
Levels of Developer
10 volume developer is commonly used with toners, while 20 and 30 are two of the volumes recommended for at home use.
Best Toners for Brassy Orange Hair
Blue toners are the best for fixing orange hair! For light orange, definitely give the Wella Colour Charm T14 Pale Ash Blonde Toner a try! This is designed to remove gold brassiness (which is a mix of yellow and orange) so will help reduce those orange tones.
You want the hair cuticle to be open for toning. Towel-dry hair to about 65 - 75% dry then start toning. Usually color & bleach is on dry hair, even toners and colors that do not require developer; however toner that uses developer is recommended on towel dried hair.
Use 10 Volume if you are applying permanent, no-lift hair color. If the desired result is keeping color at the same color level by simply adding a tone or a tint, this is exactly what you should mix with. It won't significantly lift your base color and is the least damaging to the hair.
10 or 20 Volume Developer.
T14 is a pale ash blonde with violet-blue tones, making it better for hair that still has some orange left in it. T18, on the other hand, is Lightest Ash Blonde with only a violet base. Violet cancels out yellow while blue cancels out orange.
Apply the toner first to areas that require the most color correction or simply apply to the central part of the strands before working up to the roots and down to the tips.
Wella Colour Charm Toners should be left on for 30 minutes (this is called processing). Letting your process for the full 30 minutes is ideal, but check every 5-10 minutes or so to see how it's going. The Wella Toners turn a dark purple shade as they process, this is normal so don't panic!
The Wella Color Charm T28 Natural Blonde Hair Toner mimics a perfect sunkissed shade, looks completely natural and reduces brassy yellow and orange tones.
The Wella T14 Toner has a violet - blue base, meaning that it will target golden orange and yellow brassiness. I would recommend this toner if you have quite light hair that is more golden orange. It will give you a really cool toned result if your hair is light enough.
To avoid it going ginger or red then you must check what shade you are using. For example if the colour says golden, chocolate, mahogany, red, warm brown etc, these will all look 'ginger'. To achieve a rich colour, a basic shade must be added to create the depth (how dark it is).
How do you know which developer to use with the toner? 10 volume will allow the toner to deposit more color, 20 volume will deposit less. Once you decide which toner shade and developer you will use, measure using a hair color measuring cup and mix 1 oz.
Orange hair does not require strong peroxide developers. 6% (20 volume) will be more than sufficient to lift hair those last few levels.
Higher volumes of developer are used for darker and thicker hair types, while lower volumes are recommended for lighter or more delicate hair. Using a higher volume than recommended for thin or fine hair can lead to severe damage, dryness, and breakage.