If you're using semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair color, you'll need a developer with a lower volume, between 3 and 20 Vol. If you're using a permanent hair color, you'll need a developer with a higher volume. This is usually between 20 and 30 Vol.
20 volume is the cutoff point for permanent hair color. So permanent color is 20 volume or higher. 20 volume lifts a MAX of two levels. 30 volume lifts a MAX of 3 levels and 40 volume lifts a maximum of 4 levels. All these developers can be used with permanent hair color.
If you are trying to go darker or just deposit the color, a low-level developer like a 10 vol (or lower in some brands) would be used. If you are using a permanent, they usually use a higher developer like 20, to lift the hair and deposit color at the same time.
Ten volume is not a demi-permanent color. 10 volume will give you a permanent hair color. Permanent hair color stays in the hair and grows out leaving a line of demarcation. We use 10 volume for same level or darker to deposit color. You need about 4.5 volume to 7 volume developer for a true Demi color.
10% developer is lowest strength developer , you use that to tone or just add a slight color difference . It's also great for sensitive scalps . It depends on the color you are choosing and what condition your hair is in . If you have brittle to breaking hair your better off with 20% developer and under .
If you're looking to maintain your natural hair color or darken it slightly, 20 volume developer is a good option. It won't lighten your hair much, but it will help the hair dye to better penetrate the hair shaft and result in longer-lasting, more vibrant color.
The developer found in box color ranges between 20 and 40 volume because that is what is needed to cover gray or to change a very dark shade. Frequently coating the hair shaft with a high volume developer will cause damage, particularly if the starting condition is weakened or fragile.
The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.
Mix the Dye and Developer: The most common mixing ratio for 20 volume developer is 1:1 with permanent hair color. For example, if you're using 50 ml of dye, mix it with 50 ml of 20 volume developer. Make sure the mixture is smooth.
Using too much developer can lead to over-processing, which means that the hair cuticles can get damaged, leaving the hair looking dull, dry, and brittle. Plus, the color won't turn out the way you want it to, and you might even end up with a funky, uneven color that looks like a unicorn threw up on your head.
The 20 Volume (6%) developer is suitable for lifting the hair color by 1-2 levels and is a common choice for permanent hair color applications. It provides a 2-3 level lift when mixed with bleach, making it effective for transitioning from dark brown to light brown.
The developer is a crucial component of permanent hair dye as it activates the color and allows it to penetrate the hair shaft. Without it, the dye sits on the surface, leading to uneven and short-lived results. The chemical reaction between the developer and the dye ensures long-lasting, vibrant color.
10 Volume Developers
This developer is perfect for when you are going to color your hair a darker color than the natural shade.
30 volume developer has a high concentration of peroxide, which can lift the hair color by up to three levels. This means it can lighten the hair significantly, making it suitable for transitioning from darker shades to lighter ones.
Use 10 Vol for tone down coloring and level-on-level coloring. Use 20 Vol if you are aiming for a 1-2 level lift (and if you have grey hair that needs covering). Use 30 Vol if you are aiming for a 2-3 level lift. Use 40 Vol if you are aiming for a 3 level lift and if the hair is particularly difficult to color.
A Volume 20 developer is also a common strength for mixing with bleach because it provides 2-3 levels of lift, which is enough to lighten dark brown hair.
Use 20 Volume when lifting hair color one or two levels (levels refer to the oxidizing potential). If your hair is more that 50 percent grey, 20 Volume can help provide 100 percent coverage when used with permanent hair color.
If your client's hair is dark blonde/light brown (level 5-6), aim at around 30 minutes using 30 Vol developer. If your client's hair is brown/dark brown (level 4-5), aim at around around 30-40 minutes using 30 Vol developer with fresh mix added in during processing time.
Use 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring and going darker. Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage. Use 40 Vol for 3 levels lift and more. The mix for Ugly Duckling cream color is 1 part color to 1 part developer.
Pigment loss occurs naturally in hair as we age. Along with the changes in pigmentation, grey hairs can also undergo structural changes Grey hair is often also coarser. The outer cuticle layer of greys can be more tightly packed and layered, making them resistant to colour absorption.
Is it better to go lighter or darker to cover grey hair? As for your permanent colour kit choice, for the best grey coverage, Josh recommends choosing a shade close to your natural root colour (that's the colour between the greys.) "Make sure to never stray more than two shades away from this,” says Josh.
Always Use a 20 Volume Developer
Since there is no pigment, there is no need to lift. You just need to open the cuticle enough to deposit the color. If you feel you can get full coverage using a 10 or 15 volume then by all means use a lower volume.
Schwarzkopf products are preferred by many salons for their consistent and dependable results, with an emphasis on quality and performance. Matrix provides a complete line of professional hair color products to a wide range of clients.
40 volume developer is the strongest level of developer, and we do not recommend it for at home use. Even with dark hair, it is easier and safer to do several rounds of lightning with a lower volume developer rather than try to lift your hair an extreme amount in one go with a higher volume developer.