Bulbs generally prefer average to loamy soil with good drainage. When planted in clay soils or following long periods of rain in early spring, however, they are susceptible to rot diseases caused by fungal pathogens such as those in the genus Fusarium.
Chicken wire or a similar sort of barrier around the bulbs or cayenne pepper sprinkled around are indeed the most common suggestions for keeping rodents out of new bulb plantings. You could also try some plastic garden netting staked over the area when you plant and then remove it in the spring when you see growth.
Answer: Bulbs are adapted somewhat to freezing and thawing, but if they get too wet, they are prone to rotting, especially when temperatures are mild in fall and spring. There are several things that you can do to protect them from excess winter water.
Plant the firm bulbs and those with sprouts; discard the rest. The mold/rot is harmless - unless you have allergies to molds. It's just rot from the bulbs exuding their stored moisture in a closed plastic bag; and it's normal for this kind of decay to have an offensive odor.
Blue mould may appear on tissue that has been slightly damaged, but you can cut it away with a clean, sharp knife and dust the wound with fungicide.
For some flower bulbs, it's beneficial to soak them in water before planting. Specifically, anemone and ranunculus bulbs should be soaked in water before planting. This process ensures the bulbs swell and start rooting faster once in the ground, leading to better growth.
Comments on the Disease
Bacterial bulb rots are primarily a problem on onions. Water is essential for entry and spread of the bacteria. When bacteria enter through the neck, they cause internal rot; when bacteria enter the bulb through wounds and dying lower leaves, they cause external rot.
Avoid any which are damaged, shrivelled, soft or mouldy, as these are likely to fail, leaving you with a disappointing gap in your flower beds. When buying bulbs, aim to plant them within 1 week of purchase to prevent them sprouting too early.
Loose connections like faulty wiring or depressed socket tabs can burn out bulbs quicker. Ensure all contacts are secure. Using the wrong type of bulb or incorrect wattage leads to quick burnout. Always match the bulb type and wattage to your fixture's requirements.
Coffee grounds are a natural repellent for squirrels, and they're easy to mix in with your soil. Instead of discarding your leftover coffee grounds, sprinkle them around the surface soil in your potted plant. You can use your fingers to gently rake the grounds in.
Bulbs Are Dug Out of the Soil: Squirrels commonly dig bulbs to eat, as do chipmunks, skunks, voles, raccoons, and rabbits. If a skunk is involved, you should be able to smell remnants of his or her odor. Footprints and chew marks are other clues you can use to identify the culprit.
Peppermint, spearmint, and other scented plants in the mint family will repel not only squirrels but other rodents as well.
Cut the foliage, but leave the roots, and store the bulbs dry and as cool as possible until early November. Then plant them in your garden according to what zone you live in, using a good mix of soil and compost, and be sure to water them thoroughly when first planting them.
The bulbs rotted in wet soil.
Most bulbs demand well drained spots with loose, rich soil. If you don't have that, create raised beds by improving the soil before planting with compost, rotted leaves, or similar organic matter.
Most spring-flowering bulbs should be planted 6 to 8 weeks before the soil begins to freeze. In growing zones 4-5, the ideal planting time is mid to late October. Gardeners in zones 6-8 should wait until November. In warmer areas (zones 9-10), most spring-blooming bulbs must be chilled before they are planted.
Bulb decay in Tulips can be caused by Botrytis tulipae or B. cinera. When bulb decay is caused by B. tulipae,the disease is known as “fire” and the diseased flowers arising from infected bulbs are known as 'fireheads'.
A rotting bulb can be salvaged (you can make more of the same variety) by cutting the rot away and using a method called cuttage. Both Jodi and I (and many others) have done this. You end up cutting the rot away under very clean conditions and putting the pieces in baggies of moist vermiculite.
A soil with poor drainage is the enemy of most bulbs. This often leads to rotten bulbs that cannot grow.
LED bulbs are especially sensitive to heat, though too much heat can shorten the lifespan of incandescent and CFL bulbs, as well. Light bulbs that are fully enclosed (like in globes in ceiling fans) are more susceptible to premature failure from excessive heat because the enclosure traps the heat.
To prevent bulbs from getting too hot, make sure to keep them away from the furnace, out of bright sunlight, not on top of the refrigerator or any other place that can get hot in your home. Ideal storage places in the home include a basement, closet or utility room that stays cool but above freezing.
Hold the bulb between you thumb and your index finger so you can gently squeeze the bulb in different locations on its surface. If your bulb is solid and doesn't feel squishy, then plant that bulb. If that bulb is squishy and doesn't feel solid or feels hollow, then that bulb needs to be thrown out.
Any bulb that is mushy and soft is rotten, and any bulb that is very dry, withered, or disintegrating is beyond its prime. Neither will grow. Toss them into the compost pile and console yourself with the fact that they will contribute to your garden's growth and beauty in a different form.
Most bulbs can be stored for up to a year, but tend to perform best when planted within six months of lifting. For tender bulbs, be sure to plant in the spring following the fall in which they were lifted-they will likely not have enough energy to survive past the warm season and into the following year.