Ingredients like retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, PHA, chemical peels, and even lasers can prompt the skin to purge.”
“Ingredients like retinoids, AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) and some types of vitamin C can trigger purging by bringing hidden pimples to the surface of the skin faster than usual.”
How long does purging skin last? It generally lasts around 4 weeks (an average skin cycle length) but it can last up to 8 weeks. If you're still breaking out more than usual after this period of time, consider what else you're using in your routine, as it may not be purging.
If you're experiencing purging from using AHA/BHA, it's generally recommended to continue using them. Purging is a temporary phase where your skin may experience increased breakouts as the AHA/BHA exfoliates and brings underlying impurities to the surface. This process can help improve your skin in the long run.
Alpha hydroxy acids begin to work almost immediately when formulated in leave-on formats (toners, liquid exfoliants) to reveal brighter, glowy skin. It takes a bit longer, about 2-4 months, to visibly recognize AHA-related anti-aging benefits, like a decrease in appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (4).
In some people, alpha hydroxy acids can make the skin extra sensitive to sunlight. Be sure to use a sunscreen while using alpha hydroxy acid products. Alpha hydroxy acids can also cause mild skin irritation, redness, swelling, itching, and skin discoloration.
Appearance. Acne purging and breakouts can look similar at first glance, with increased red bumps and pimples. However, purging tends to cause uniform congestion, affecting the entire area where you applied the new treatment. Breakouts often appear more sporadic in your usual problem spots.
You will know you are getting results when your skin looks and feels better. If BHA is working, you should see some changes in your skin. While the improvements may not happen overnight—it can sometimes take several months or even years of consistent application for these products to show results.
Benefits of AHA and BHA Exfoliants
You can also help treat all types of acne with AHAs and BHAs. Since AHAs work on the surface of your skin, they're great for treating surface pimples like whiteheads and blackheads. BHAs work underneath the surface to unclog pores and heal cystic acne more quickly.
It's recommended to keep your skincare routine to a minimum during skin purging. Aside from the new product that you're testing, stick to the skin-friendly products you've used before. Concentrate on your fundamentals, such as cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and SPF.
Do: Use it overnight. My AHAs work the night shift to smooth your skin: zero effort required. Apply my AHA lotion all over, slip into your PJs, and dream of me. Sleep tight and wake up to your best skin yet.
1 Known as "skin purging," worsening acne is a short-term reaction to ingredients that speed up cell turnover. Salicylic acid helps your body quickly get rid of dead skin cells. As a result, those dead skin cells, dirt, and oils appear on the surface of your skin, which clogs your pores and causes acne.
Skin purging is a supercharged cleanse for your complexion. It is usually caused by an active ingredient in a skincare product or a process that speeds up the skin's cell shedding and renewal phase. These ingredients stimulate cell renewal turnover rate leaving behind clearer, smoother skin.
Don't mix: AHAs and BHAs should not be used with retinol products as this can cause irritation. Additionally, these ingredients should not be mixed with vitamin C products as this can also irritate your skin.
How long does skin purging last? “It can last from four days to six weeks, but on average, you can expect it to occur for around two weeks.”
In general, it is safe to use BHA exfoliants daily if your skin can tolerate it without experiencing any irritation or dryness. However, if you have sensitive skin or are new to using BHA exfoliants, it is best to start with a lower frequency and gradually increase as your skin adjusts.
You can exfoliate around the eye area, but not the eyelid or directly under the eye (along the lower lash line). You don't need to wait for your BHA or AHA to absorb or dry; you can apply any other product in your routine—moisturizer, serum, eye cream or sunscreen—immediately afterward.
When the skin begins to purge and get rid of excess oil and dead skin cells, it's preparing to clear what isn't needed out of the body. While it goes through this process, acne and breakouts improve over time. Avoid touching, picking, or popping pimples.
How long will it last? Because purging occurs with a change of skincare regime, it should only take one full skin cycle to get through the worst of it. On average a skin cycle is 5-6 weeks. At the age of 19-21,the process can take 14-21 days compared to a middle-aged adult where it is estimated to be 28 days.
Skin purging is more likely to be in a predictable location. “Purging occurs in areas where you typically experience breakouts and tends to improve over time, while new breakouts may appear in unexpected areas," said said Dr. Yamauchi.
These include chemical exfoliants such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids and popular anti-ageing active, retinol (Vitamin A). When first introducing these ingredients, you may experience breakouts as your skin's exfoliation and turnover processes get a kickstart.
The other liquid exfoliant is Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids (AHA's, Glycolic, Lactic). As AHA's increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, I'd suggest using this at night. If you use a AHA in the morning, always make sure to follow with a broad spectrum sunscreen.
The U.S. FDA has recommended exercising caution in relation to adverse reactions such as redness, swelling, burning, and pruritus due to use of AHA-containing products [44]. Similarly, UV-induced phototoxicity has been associated with AHA concentrations.