AHAs also work as humectants, adds Dr. Orit Markowitz, an NYC board certified dermatologist and founder of OptiSkin. In other words, they help draw moisture into the skin to keep it hydrated. Retinol, on the other hand, belongs to the family of vitamin A derivatives known as retinoids.
According to Dr. Koo, retinol and glycolic (as well as other AHAs) have different functions. While glycolic effectively removes debris from the skin, retinol stimulates cell regeneration as well as the production of collagen and elastin, which lessens the appearance of wrinkles.
If you have time, you can use hydroxy acids and retinol sequentially. After applying an AHA or BHA product, wait for 30 minutes to allow your skin's pH to return to normal, and then apply the retinol product.
Alpha hydroxy acids include citric acid (found in citrus fruits), glycolic acid (found in sugar cane), lactic acid (found in sour milk and tomato juice), malic acid (found in apples), tartaric acid (found in grapes), and others.
Retinol works with Alpha Lipoic Acid to provide maximum benefits, effectively and gently. Alpha and beta hydroxyl acids may be used to exfoliate the skin, increase cell turnover, and reduce fine wrinkles and mottled pigmentation.
No interactions were found between alpha-lipoic acid and Vitamin C.
Don't Mix: Retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and AHA/BHA acids. AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating, which can dry out skin and cause further irritation if your skincare routine already includes retinol.
“While hyaluronic acid helps in hydrating your skin, glycolic acid exfoliates dead skin cells,” he explains. It's one of the safest alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) you'll find in skincare products—meaning, unlike hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid actually is an acid.
Higher concentrations of the active ingredients in OTC products are buffered, and therefore neutralized, to prevent peeling. These OTC AHA products are not known to improve skin wrinkling. Improvements with these or prescription products last only as long as the product is used.
Various alpha hydroxy acids are applied to the skin (used topically) for moisturizing and removing dead skin cells, for treating acne and improving the appearance of acne scars, for improving the appearance of photo-aged skin, and firming and smoothing skin.
Not all skin care ingredients pair well together. Some combinations can react negatively or lessen the ingredients' benefits. Fortunately, it's safe to mix niacinamide and retinol. In fact, the combination is considered to have numerous benefits.
Don't use glycolic acid and retinol at the same time in your routine. Start by introducing one of them and use it consistently for a week, then switch to the other for a week. You may want to take additional time if you know you have sensitive skin.
These two anti-aging ingredients aren't entirely different. In fact, retinol is a type of retinoid. However, retinoid most often describes more powerful prescription products, while retinol generally refers to weaker over-the-counter (OTC) formulas. As board certified dermatologist Dr.
Retinoids work best if you use them daily. Specifically, they should be used at night because some types are deactivated by light and air. It's important to start slowly and allow your skin time to adjust. Using too much too quickly can cause redness, dryness, and irritation.
Retinoid or Retinol and Salicylic Acid
But on its own, each can dry out the skin, so together they should be combined with caution. The risk is overdrying, which can lead to irritation and make the situation worse.
If your skin can tolerate both ingredients with no dryness or irritation, you can eventually begin using one in the morning and one in the evening. Just take care to avoid applying any products containing active ingredients, like vitamin C, directly after using glycolic acid.
Doctors can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a concentration of 50 to 70%. 7 Alpha hydroxy chemical peel treatments also erase fine wrinkles and remove surface scars, but the effects last longer—up to two to five years.
Whether AHA is a friend or foe of human skin depends on its concentration. AHAs used as peeling agents at high concentrations will disrupt cohesion of the corneocytes of the skin barrier and result in skin irritation, which is harmful to the skin.
Skin cell turnover from exfoliating glycolic and lactic acids can even reduce acne scars. Some acne products also contain other AHAs, such as citric and malic acids, to help soothe inflamed skin. And AHAs aren't just for your face! You can use AHA products on other acne-prone areas, including your backside and chest.
Hyaluronic acid is best if they're looking to moisturize dry skin, while retinol works better by encouraging better skin by boosting collagen production. They have several benefits that can work in tandem for better results, though patients need to be careful with the exact formulations they use.
Can I Combine AHA/BHA With Hyaluronic Acid? Yes! In fact, this is an ideal combination. Hyaluronic acid doesn't function like an AHA or BHA in that it does not strip your skin — it's actually highly nourishing and hydrating, so having “acid” in the name is a bit misleading.
“Vitamin A derivatives help to clear acne, as they help to regulate skin cell turnover,” says Marisa Garshick, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. Unlike salicylic acid, which exfoliates dead skin cells and dissolves clogs, and benzoyl peroxide, which kills acne-causing bacteria, retinoids work from the inside out.
Who should skip retinol? “Retinols can be a beneficial addition for most skin types, but it isn't a one-size-fits-all approach,” Panzica says. Board certified dermatologist Zenovia Gabriel, MD, notes that “people with sensitive skin conditions like rosacea cannot tolerate really strong topicals like retinols.”
The truth: You can use vitamin C with retinol and retinoids. Get them as separate products so you can tailor the concentration of each and use them at the right time of day. Although vitamin C can be used day or night, it is ideal for daytime use, while retinol and retinoids should be applied at night.
In general, most people won't need to use an exfoliant with tretinoin. Instead, the best approach is to let tretinoin work on its own to speed up skin cell turnover and improve your skin, all while managing potential dryness, flaking and irritation through good hydration and moisturizing.