10 Volume (3%) Developer This developer provides a gentle lift of 1-2 levels, making it suitable for subtle changes close to the current hair shade.
30 Volume (9%) Developer
Although a Volume 30 developer is strong enough to cause scalp irritation in most people, it allows you to achieve a 3-4 level lift with bleach.
40% developer is a very strong lift or intensity for the color , 30% developer is a medium lift for 5 shades and is strong , 20% developer is standard lift and what most people use to dye their hair . 10% developer is lowest strength developer , you use that to tone or just add a slight color difference .
The most common volumes of developer are 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume. The volume relates to the strength of the developer, meaning the higher the number, the stronger the volume.
Even if you're using it with a 10 volume, it's still permanent color with a high high amount of ammonia. If you're using this as a filler you're doing unnecessary damage to your hair, and possibly creating more porosity issues.
10 volume developers contain 3% hydrogen peroxide. These developers are also called no lift developers because they only provide moderate lift to your cuticles, i.e., lift by 1 level. This developer is perfect for when you are going to color your hair a darker color than the natural shade.
The standard developer for gray coverage is 20 Volume; however, 30 Volume and 40 Volume can also be used if the percentage of gray is low and additional lift is needed to achieve the desired result.
Known to be the strongest developer that makes the biggest impact, 40 Volume lifts up to four levels and lightens hair quickly. It is often used with Satin Bleach to remove dark color pigment from natural hair or with high-lift color to create highlights or vibrant blondes.
For subtle changes and depositing color, a 10 Volume (3%) developer is ideal. For lifting the color by 1-2 levels, opt for a 20 Volume (6%) developer. A 30 Volume (9%) developer is suitable for more noticeable lifts of 2-3 levels, while a 40 Volume (12%) developer is used for significant lightening up to 8 levels.
Peroxides or Developers don't 'spoil' or go bad but they can deteriorate meaning the Hydrogen Peroxide breaks down to free oxygen and water causing the product to weaken (go from 10 Vol. to 9 Vol. or less) or it can dehydrate or lose water and get more 'concentrated' (go from 20 Vol. to 22 vol. or more) However, all ...
While bleach opens up the hair cuticle more forcefully for intense lightening, a 30 volume developer on its own can still help to lift color by about two to three levels, depending on your natural hair color. This option is ideal if you want to avoid the harsh effects of bleach but still desire a lighter color.
The developer found in box color ranges between 20 and 40 volume because that is what is needed to cover gray or to change a very dark shade. Frequently coating the hair shaft with a high volume developer will cause damage, particularly if the starting condition is weakened or fragile.
But we don't recommend that you apply just developer to the hair. You will get an uncontrolled lift, without any re-coloration and you will end up damaging the hair. Always use developer combined with bleach or color or toner. Never by itself.
40 Volume. 40 volume developer can be used with permanent hair color and high lift color to give 3-4 levels of lift depending on the power of the color and the texture of the hair. Open-air processing such as balayage is ideal for 40 volume developer as it allows for maximum lift but the control of less heat.
From a strand test, you should also get a better sense of how many sessions you'll need to make the full transition. For example, going from dark brown to light blonde hair may require three to four sessions.
This is because you can cause irreversible damage to the hair if you over process it. The worst that will happen with using too low of a developer, is the need to reapply more bleach. My best recommendation is to start very low with your developer strength, starting at 6 or 10 volume.
If you're looking to maintain your natural hair color or darken it slightly, 20 volume developer is a good option. It won't lighten your hair much, but it will help the hair dye to better penetrate the hair shaft and result in longer-lasting, more vibrant color.
10 volume: This is a mild low-level of developer. This is useful if you only want to slightly change the color of your hair. It's also a good volume to use with a lot of toners. 20 volume: This is stronger than 10 volume and it's commonly used for lightening hair at home as it lifts 1 to 2 levels.
Theoretically speaking water would be 0 vol peroxide. So 1:1 ratio would make 10vol.
Use 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring and going darker. Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage. Use 40 Vol for 3 levels lift and more. The mix for Ugly Duckling cream color is 1 part color to 1 part developer.
“It all depends on how light you want to go and what was previously done to the hair,” says Pearl. “On virgin hair, you can most likely lift up to seven levels [in one session]. This can become harder on a darker level hair.”
Always Use a 20 Volume Developer
Gray hair tends to be resistant and typically takes longer to grab hold of the hair.
Use 10 Vol for tone down coloring and level-on-level coloring. Use 20 Vol if you are aiming for a 1-2 level lift (and if you have grey hair that needs covering). Use 30 Vol if you are aiming for a 2-3 level lift. Use 40 Vol if you are aiming for a 3 level lift and if the hair is particularly difficult to color.
Along with a drop in melanin production, grey hair produces less sebum – the natural oil that keeps it soft and supple. As its texture changes, your hair might feel more dry, coarse, or wiry. This means it won't absorb hair dye like it used to.
It could be that your hair is resistant to tint, especially when the hair texture has changed as a result of going white. But also it could be that by going lighter, either all over, or by introducing (subtle) highlights you would not see the regrowth strip quite as quickly as if it were lighter.