If you're using retinol to reduce wrinkles, the process can be lengthy. A review of retinoids indicates that most individuals see a significant decrease in wrinkles after about three months of use.
THE BENEFITS OF ENCAPSULATED RETINOL
Retinol is a very effective skincare ingredient for reducing signs of aging (like fine lines), evening out tone, brightening dark spots and post-acne marks, and reforming texture.
Is Encapsulated Retinol Better Than Traditional Retinol? Encapsulated retinol isn't necessarily any more potent than retinol that's not encapsulated; however, since it has higher stability and penetration potential, both Koestline and Dr. Hartman say it's the best option.
Because this ingredient is so incredibly powerful, it's best to stick to using it once per day. “Even when retinol is encapsulated, it is still recommended only to be used at night,” reveals Hobson. “Retinol is damaged by sunlight, which is why it is recommended as a night-time use product.
Moderate-strength retinol – 0.03% to 0.3%
If you experience skin concerns like uneven skin tone or texture and a visible loss of firmness, try adding a stronger product to your routine: around 0.2% retinol is ideal.
Retinol works for acne by preventing clogged pores. You may still see pimples for the first couple of months of treatment – your skin might even look worse (this is sometimes referred to as the retinol purge). But if you stick with it, you'll see clearer skin.
Encapsulated delivery systems promotes cell turnover – which reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin complexion, enhances radiance and provides an overall healthier appearance to skin. Also, by drip-feeding retinol into the skin, you minimise the risk of irritation and inflammation.
Regardless of your skin type or which product you use first, a layer of moisturizer should always be applied after retinoids.
How is Encapsulated Retinol Different? Traditional retinols are free form molecules of vitamin A. This can make them a bit unpredictable and it can lead to even more of those side effects we outlined above. Encapsulated retinol is basically a retinol molecule that's wrapped up inside a carrier system.
Retinol (leave to absorb for 10-20 minutes)
Retinol is also an ingredient that should be left to absorb sufficiently into the skin before following up with another product. “It is important to leave a 10-20 minute wait time before applying the next product.
"Skin purging happens when new ingredients, like retinol, promote increased cell turnover, which causes clogging and worsening breakouts. This is particularly the case as oil and debris that is trapped deeper underneath the skin comes to the surface," explains board-certified dermatologist Michele J.
Always use retinol at night. Do not use retinol in the morning. For most skin types, serums that contain niacinamide and vitamin C (ascorbic acid) go in step 3- the treatment product step. Moisturizers come after the serum and retinoids go on top of the moisturizer.
Retinoic Acid. As mentioned earlier, retinoic acid is the most potent form of retinoids. “This is the end point molecule that is biologically active on skin, and is therefore the strongest,” says Dr. Rabach.
Use Retinol Only at Night and Wear SPF Every Day
"Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays and sunlight decreases the efficacy of the product," explains Bowe, who instructs patients to only use retinoids at night and be diligent about applying a daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day.
There's no problem with using both retinol and vitamin C as part of your skincare routine, dermatologists say. In fact, Shirazi calls this combo a "power couple" when it comes to aging well.
Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. They also stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin color. Additional benefits include fading age spots and softening rough patches of skin.
This milky serum contains 3% retinol in an encapsulated form, which equates to 0.09% of retinol proper, and is gradually released into the skin over the night.
Don't Mix: Retinol with vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and AHA/BHA acids. AHA and BHA acids are exfoliating, which can dry out the skin and cause further irritation if your skincare routine already includes retinol.
Should you use retinol under your eyes? Yes, definitely. While it is true that retinol – a form of vitamin A – is a powerful ingredient and the skin under your eyes is delicate, there's no reason why you should miss out on the amazing benefits of retinol.
At night we might be using night creams that contain actives such as retinol which are not recommended to be used in the morning so it is essential to wash your face in the morning to remove those residual creams/serum.
Owing to its potency, retinol products can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Hence, always apply it at night. “In the morning, make sure you follow up your skincare routine with a face wash, vitamin C serum, under eye cream, moisturiser and then a sunscreen,” advises Dr.
So if you start using retinol every day out of the gate, you can end up with some painful inflammation and a damaged skin barrier, negating any potential positives. One way to avoid that irritation is to start slow, explains Ranella Hirsch, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston.
First-time retinol users have reported irritation, including redness, dryness, and peeling. If you use too high a strength or apply retinol more frequently than you should, you may experience further irritation, like itchiness and scaly patches.
The telltale signs of retinol burn include skin that is red, irritated, flaky, inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that is not usual for your skin," adds Idriss.
STEP 5: APPLY YOUR RETINOL
You'll want to use clean, dry fingertips for application. We recommend starting at your chin and working your way up to your face. Use your fingertips to apply the product to your skin using gentle, outward, upward strokes. Never rub the skin, as this can lead to increased irritation.