Salicylic acid is one of my favorite ingredients for treating a variety of skin ailments, including acne and dark spots. It's so effective because in addition to being an anti-inflammatory and an antibacterial, it's a keratolytic, which means it breaks down the keratin in our skin and thus helps to lighten dark spots.
Salicylic acid is an exfoliating agent that will remove acne causing bacteria and even slough of dark spots along with other dead skin cells. Tip: Use a salicylic acid face cleanser and then a spot treatment infused with the ingredient for best results.
“You'll likely see results in four to six weeks,” says Dr. Nazarian, “after which you should continue to use it for long-term effects.” That means you shouldn't expect any miracles overnight—good skin requires patience, y'all.
One chemical exfoliant that Dr. Pierre recommends for dark spots is glycolic acid, which is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps dissolve and shed the "glue" between dead, discolored skin cells, leaving you with a clearer, brighter, all-around glowier face.
Salicylic acid peel has effectiveness for both of acne and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation that are common in patients with skin of color.
Precautions for Salicylic Acid Use
Also, because salicylic acid does affect pigmentations, darker skin types may want to avoid salicylic acid, particularly in high concentrations, to prevent unnatural-looking hypopigmentation.
"If salicylic acid is an ingredient in your cleanser, it is fine to use it every day." However, if you are using an exfoliant that salicylic acid in the formula, Dr. Hu advises only using the product three times per week, to avoid over-exfoliating the skin and drying it out.
No, salicylic acid is not a skin lightening (as in whitening) agent and therefore, it cannot lighten your skin. However, since salicylic acid has the ability to exfoliate your skin's surface and remove dead skin cells, it can help give your skin a brighter more even complexion.
While Green says that retin-a (tretinoin) or retinoids are best, retinol is the next best bet without a prescription. “Retinol is a weaker over-the-counter formula of retinoids and can provide similar benefits in reducing the appearance of dark spots, although it will typically take much longer,” Green explains.
Signs it's not working: Your acne isn't going away and your skin is damaged. Why it might not be working: Not all acne is created equal — and if your acne is severe, salicylic might not be strong enough for you. “Cystic acne will need something stronger than salicylic acid,” says NYC-based dermatologist Debra Jaliman.
It's well-known for reducing acne by exfoliating the skin and keeping pores clear. You can find salicylic acid in a variety of over-the-counter (OTC) products. It's also available in prescription-strength formulas. Salicylic acid works best for mild acne (blackheads and whiteheads).
Salicylic acid creams that are only 1% or 2% in strength, you can leave it overnight on the skin and rinse it off in the morning. Remember to use a good broad spectrum sunscreen because salicylic acid can make your skin sensitive.
If you want to get rid of dark spots fast, a procedure that removes layers of discolored skin may work better than a lightening cream. These techniques include laser treatments, freezing (cryotherapy), dermabrasion, microdermabrasion, microneedling, and chemical peels.
Most dark spots will then fade on their own over time, but it may take a long time. Skin injury: As the wound heals, you may see a dark spot or patch. In time, the hyperpigmentation will fade if you don't re-injure your skin.
Might Lighten Dark Spots
Vitamin C-based skin care products may lighten patches that are darker than the rest of your skin, called hyperpigmentation. In one study, vitamin C applied to the skin for 16 weeks significantly cut down on these spots.
“Differin is really effective because it contains 2 percent hydroquinone, which is a powerful FDA-approved ingredient that interferes with melanin production in order to lighten dark spots,” says Dr. Engleman. At a 2 percent concentration, this is the most powerful hydroquinone you can get over the counter.
When using salicylic acid or other acne treatments, it may take 6-8 weeks to start noticing results. Anyone who does not see an improvement in their acne after this time may wish to contact a doctor or dermatologist for advice on alternative treatment options.
“You can use a salicylic acid–based cleanser in the morning to unclog pores and avoid acne and a glycolic acid–based cleanser at night to exfoliate your skin and get rid of dead skin cells,” notes Jailman.
Benefits of Salicylic Acid
Softens the contents of clogged pores: The oil-soluble ingredient is able to penetrate the pores, loosen the "glue" that causes the skin cells to stick together, and remove the contents of clogged pores that lead to superficial acne, like whiteheads, blackheads, and small red pimples.
Salicylic acid clears pores, reduces swelling and redness, and exfoliates the skin when applied topically. It's considered to be one of the best treatments for acne scars. You can add products with salicylic acid into your daily routine, or your skin care specialist may use it for less frequent chemical peels.