Salicylic acid works to treat acne by unclogging blocked pores. It does this by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells so that they can release from the pore more easily, and breaking down oils, such as sebum. Salicylic acid also decreases the skin's sebum production, leading to fewer breakouts.
Caption Options. For example, salicylic acid, which works to unclog pores, is also a “mild chemical irritant.” Kathleen Suozzi, a dermatologic surgeon at Yale School of Medicine explains that this means salicylic acid also works as a drying agent and can cause skin redness and flaking if used too much.
Salicylic acid penetrates into your skin and works to dissolve the dead skin cells clogging your pores. It can take several weeks of use for you to see its full effect. Check with your dermatologist if you aren't seeing results after 6 weeks.
1. Use salicylic acid. To get the gunk out of your pores, you need the best gunk buster around—salicylic acid. "Gentile exfoliating cleansers of the salicylic acid variant are great because salicylic acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) that cuts through sebum and breaks it down," says Dr.
Pores can become clogged with excess oil, dead skin, or dirt, or they can appear more prominent as a result of too much sun exposure. Other factors that can influence pores becoming clogged include genetics and hormones.
While it might be possible to remove a lot of buildup in the pores, you likely can't remove all of it. “I think there will always be a certain amount of 'cloggage' in your pores, but you can lighten or limit the appearance of pores with a solid skincare routine,” Dr. Idriss says.
Products that may cause purging
Retinoids such as Tretinoin, acids such as salicylic, and benzoyl peroxide are just a few of the products that cause purging. These products contain active ingredients that increase the skin cell turnover rate, therefore causing your skin to purge.
"If salicylic acid is an ingredient in your cleanser, it is fine to use it every day." However, if you are using an exfoliant that salicylic acid in the formula, Dr. Hu advises only using the product three times per week, to avoid over-exfoliating the skin and drying it out.
Is it okay to use salicylic acid every day? While it is okay to use salicylic acid every day, it could cause irritation. Many dermatologists, therefore, recommend using the acid in moderation, beginning by applying it three times a week and working up from there.
Generally speaking, dermatologists say purging should be over within four to six weeks of starting a new skin care regimen. If your purge lasts longer than six weeks, consult your dermatologist. It could be that you need to adjust the dosage and/or frequency of application.
Acne treatments — especially those that contain active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid — are drying and a bit harsh on your skin. If you use too many treatments at the same time, your skin may become irritated, and you may actually suffer more breakouts as a result.
Although salicylic acid is best known for its ability to treat whiteheads and blackheads, it can also help eliminate buildup and scaling on the skin caused by psoriasis, warts, calluses and dandruff, said Garshick.
Do you apply salicylic acid before or after moisturiser? Generally speaking, the most potent skin products containing salicylic acid are those such as serums, spot treatments and cleansers, all of which are applied before moisturisers.
When using salicylic acid or other acne treatments, it may take 6-8 weeks to start noticing results. Anyone who does not see an improvement in their acne after this time may wish to contact a doctor or dermatologist for advice on alternative treatment options.
“You can use a salicylic acid–based cleanser in the morning to unclog pores and avoid acne and a glycolic acid–based cleanser at night to exfoliate your skin and get rid of dead skin cells,” notes Jailman.
Skin purging typically looks like tiny red bumps on the skin that are painful to touch. They are often accompanied by whiteheads or blackheads. It can also cause your skin to become flaky. The flare ups caused by purging have a shorter lifespan than a breakout.
Salicylic acid creams that are only 1% or 2% in strength, you can leave it overnight on the skin and rinse it off in the morning. Remember to use a good broad spectrum sunscreen because salicylic acid can make your skin sensitive.
But overall, stick to using water-based products and serums together. AHAs and BHAs, such as glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids should never be used with Vitamin C. Vitamin C is an acid, too, and is unstable, so the pH balance will be thrown off by layering these ingredients together and might as well be useless.
It's mostly made up of sebum (oil that your skin produces) and dead skin cells. This substance typically collects in pores around your nose and chin. That's because the pores here tend to be bigger, and the oil remains in the pore lining until you squeeze them.
"Pores are the tiny passageways through which our skin secretes oil," Yerkes said. "Sometimes the excess of sebum mixed with the dirt causes our pores to become clogged."
“Vitamin A derivatives help to clear acne, as they help to regulate skin cell turnover,” says Marisa Garshick, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. Unlike salicylic acid, which exfoliates dead skin cells and dissolves clogs, and benzoyl peroxide, which kills acne-causing bacteria, retinoids work from the inside out.
Once it penetrates the skin, salicylic acid "dissolves skin debris that clogs pores, [acts] as an anti-inflammatory, and also helps red, inflamed pimples and pustules go away faster," explains Naissan O. Wesley, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles.
Signs it's not working: Your acne isn't going away and your skin is damaged. Why it might not be working: Not all acne is created equal — and if your acne is severe, salicylic might not be strong enough for you. “Cystic acne will need something stronger than salicylic acid,” says NYC-based dermatologist Debra Jaliman.
“In skin purging, whiteheads and blackheads that are deep inside your skin start coming up to the surface. Furthermore, they start converting into pimples and you feel like you are having a bad reaction to the product you just started,” she further added.