Alpha arbutin is a more tolerable alternative to hydroquinone and is sometimes referred to as “natural hydroquinone.” Alpha arbutin functions similarly to hydroquinone, due to its molecular structure, but with reduced irritation and melanocytotoxicity.
Although not as effective as hydroquinone itself, arbutin naturally breaks down into hydroquinone on the skin. But it doesn't carry the same risk of side effects, says Chiu: “The hydroquinone is released slowly, and skin is not exposed to too much of it at any time.
Alternative lightening agents including mequinol, arbutin, kojic acid, and others have shown comparable efficacy to hydroquinone in treating hyperpigmentation with less concerning side effects.
No. Arbutin does not have the ability to permanently bleach or lighten your skin. Although arbutin can lighten and brighten your skin, it is not destroying melanin - it simply disrupts/slows melanin production.
Alpha Arbutin has comparatively fewer risks than many whitening ingredients, including kojic acid, making it effective for dark spots and melanin overproduction. While kojic acid has been proven to be more effective than alpha-arbutin, it is hard to store.
The risk of rebound hyperpigmentation also increases if alpha arbutin is stopped abruptly or skin is exposed excessively to sunlight without protection. Otherwise, alpha arbutin can be safe to use in the long term if the correct strength and protocols are followed.
Arbutin works best in those who need to fade mild or moderate hyperpigmentation and with lighter skin tones. Tranexamic acid is also gentle and is a great alternative for those who have not respond well to or wish to avoid tyrosinase inhibitors like hydroquinone or arbutin.
By inhibiting the Tyrosinase activity, Alpha Arbutin limits the melanin production on the skin. With regular use of this active ingredient, the dark spots and patches on the skin can fade away within a few weeks.
Retinoids: Retinoids like retinol and tretinoin are known for their potential to increase skin sensitivity and can cause irritation when used with alpha arbutin. It's best to separate the application of alpha arbutin and retinoids, using one in the morning and the other at night.
Arbutin has been found to be the most effective active ingredient in our study, even more so than hydroquinone, despite being a naturally occurring derivative.
10% azelaic acid over the counter products have also been shown to improve hyperpigmentation concerns such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne, sun spots, and melasma; the results being equal to 4% pharmaceutical HQ. Kojic acid is another acid that specializes in reducing unwanted pigment within the skin.
Hydroquinone (HQ)
HQ is the agent of choice for skin lightening. Combining HQ with a steroid cream and tretinoin have superior efficacy when compared to HQ alone. Although it's considered safe, there may be side effects and is subject to pre-market approval by Health Sciences Authority (HSA).
Allergic reactions to arbutin are extremely rare, & unlike hydroquinone, this compound can be used long term without any concerns.
Monobenzyl ether of hydroquinone (MBEH) is a hydroquinone derivate, also known as monobenzone or by its chemical name, p-(benzyloxy) phenol. At present, it is the most potent depigmenting agent and the mainstay of depigmentation therapy.
According to experts, arbutin releases its active component slowly compared to its other counterparts. Therefore, it works better for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Alpha arbutin is considered a safer alternative to hydroquinone. Both these ingredients help fade pigmentation.
Alpha Arbutin is a safe option for all skin tones as it does not change the skin colour, only evens out your complexion. It brightens the darker areas of the skin (sun damage and hyperpigmentation), resulting in a natural even skin tone.
Tranexamic acid is more of a skin brightener than an exfoliating acid, operating as a tyrosinase inhibitor and plasmin inhibitor. Alpha arbutin, like tranexamic acid, inhibits tyrosinase but also slows melanosome maturation (the organelles that synthesise and store melanin or pigment).
Results Time- If you are looking for quick results, Kojic acid with its strong action on inhibiting melanin, would be a good option. Alpha Arbutin, though equally effective, takes time to show the results.
What is the Recommended Concentration to use? Studies have shown that Alpha Arbutin is superior in performance when compared to traditional brightening agents such as Kojic Acid and Hydroquinone. It is effective in low strengths and shows great results in concentrations of 1 to 2% when used consistently for 2-3 months.
This study revealed that intralesional tranexamic acid is the more effective and safe therapeutic modality in treating melasma than topical 4% hydroquinone.