Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, support the skin's barrier function by enhancing the production of barrier lipids (remember, a damaged skin barrier happens when too many lipids are broken down). Antioxidants also have natural healing properties to reduce inflammation and protect against water loss.
Although it is true that in some cases vitamin C can cause breakouts, it usually occurs with first time users starting with the wrong concentration or in the wrong formulation. Proper usage and selecting the right product will minimise the risk of this happening.
Harsh cleansers can strip away the essential moisturising and nourishing substances that keep your skin barrier healthy. Do not use abrasive scrubs as they can cause micro-tears to the skin's surface. Instead, use a gentle, leave-on exfoliant. Use fragrance-free skincare products.
Vitamin C can be very acidic, and serums can cause skin irritation in some people, particularly in high concentrations. When using a vitamin C serum for the first time, apply a thin layer every other day and gradually increase to daily applications.
Signs of a Damaged Skin Barrier
General skin sensitivity when exposed to certain products or environmental allergens, irritants, and aggressors. Frequent inflammation or swelling of skin. Skin redness and discoloration that occurs frequently. Dry, itchy, or generally irritated skin.
While Vitamin C serum is generally well-tolerated, some individuals may experience skin irritation, especially if they have sensitive skin. Symptoms of irritation can include redness, itching, and a burning sensation.
Using Too Many Products with Vitamin C
Using multiple products with vitamin C can cause irritation, redness, and inflammation, so it's best to limit the number of products you use.
“The date of expiration of Vitamin C skincare product depends on the type, but it usually lasts between 3-6 months” says Dr. Roos. If you don't plan to use it regularly, you may want to choose a smaller dosage to avoid expiration. Without opening it, the shelf life of Vitamin C is anywhere from 1 year to 18 months.
This outside layer is faced with the task of protecting your body from a constant barrage of UV rays, pollutants, topical products containing harsh ingredients, and stress, all of which can weaken the skin barrier and alter the visible appearance and tone of the skin.
Some examples of known skin barrier affecting ingredients include retinoid acid, hydroxy acids, amino fruit acids, and beta hydroxy acids. Also watch for alkaline products that can disrupt the skin's normal PH levels as well as products that contain isopropyl parabens, formaldehyde, and isobutyl.
If your skin is acne-prone, you don't have to worry about vitamin C making things worse. “It doesn't clog your pores and it can actually improve acne by reducing irritation that can compromise the skin barrier and lead to breakouts,” Dr. Magovern says.
“Ingredients like retinoids, AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) and some types of vitamin C can trigger purging by bringing hidden pimples to the surface of the skin faster than usual.”
High-dose vitamins B6 and B12 have also been linked to rosacea fulminans, a condition that looks like acne. Rosacea is marked by large red bumps and pustules that typically appear on the nose, chin, and/or cheeks.
Indeed, following a vitamin C skin treatment, some people have experienced itching, skin irritations, burns, and tingling. In this case, we advise you to adapt your skincare routine. Prioritise creams over serums, as the concentration of vitamin C is lower.
If you experience any irritation or allergic reaction, you should stop using the serum immediately, and if you have ongoing concerns about vitamin C products or your skin health, be sure to speak to a medical professional immediately.
You may choose to begin applying it every other day, and if tolerated you may apply it daily. It may take up to three months of consistent use to see a noticeable improvement. If you experience substantial discomfort or irritation, please stop using vitamin C and consult with your physician.
It's a bit like a math equation: the more potent the form of vitamin C, the more irritating for those with sensitive skin. Other factors or ingredients that might seem beneficial at first can also amplify the effect. “Higher percentage products may be more irritating,” says Dr.
“Some individuals might experience dryness, flakiness, or increased sensitivity to other skincare products. In more severe cases, irritation can lead to the development of small red bumps or a rash. It's essential to monitor your skin's response when introducing a new vitamin C serum and adjust usage accordingly.”
Acids, vitamin C serums and retinoids can all cause purging. Purging is an initial acne breakout that can occur when you're starting a new active skincare product—one that causes your skin cells to turn over more quickly.
The exact cause of Milia is unknown but they are often related to a high cholesterol diet, dry dehydrated skin, high intake of Vitamin C, using products on the face which are too rich or acidic and there is possibly a heredity link.
Ascorbic acid does not always penetrate into the skin very far, therefore it ends up oxidising on the surface of the skin, which causes dryness, damage and orange-tones. Ascorbic acid is acidic, so it can cause skin irritation such as peeling, stinging and excessive dryness, particularly when used in high percentages.