Typically, exfoliating does not cause acne. In fact, in most cases, exfoliating can help minimize acne when performed properly as part of an acne treatment program. Beware though, if exfoliating is done improperly or too often, it can bring on problems. If you use a scrub, use as directed and be gentle.
After applying an active exfoliant to the skin, it loosens up the congestion deep within pores and pushes it toward the surface of the skin -- causing what looks like a breakout but is actually just your skin going through a cycle.
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells—cells that can clog your pores and contribute to acne breakouts. You have to be careful about choosing an exfoliant, however, because if you make the wrong choice, you could end up irritating or damaging your skin, ultimately making the problem worse.
Whether your acne is mild or more severe, regular exfoliation will smooth and soften the skin and brighten your complexion. It also helps reduce breakouts by keeping the pores from becoming clogged with the pus of dead cells and sebum (skin oil).
But for those who are new to exfoliating products, it can be considered normal for some to experience initial breakouts (blemishes), especially those with a lot of clogged pores and bumps under the skin.
Over-exfoliated skin can become so vulnerable and damaged that it can be easily inflamed. This inflammation can then escalate into an acne breakout. Using too much exfoliant also removes too much of the surface layer of the skin, taking away with it all the trapped moisture.
You may experience skin purging from exfoliating acids, too. “Certain facials that involve a chemical peel component may also trigger this reaction,” Mraz Robinson says, “because again, it's all about a reaction in response to an accelerated exfoliation.” Your skin is affected by more than what you put on it.
When introducing a new skincare product into your routine, you can sometimes experience an adverse reaction like an increase in breakouts or dry, flaky skin. While this may seem like you should stop using a new product, it may actually be a sign that it's working. This process is known as skin purging.
Signs of over-exfoliation
“The skin appears as if it has a radiant shine. However, it is in fact very dry and exposed.” And overexposure can devolve into painful cracking and peeling, explains Geria. For reference, a healthy glow will always look plump and moisturized, not dry, thin, or waxy.
Using too many AHAs, BHAs, and chemicals at once can cause irritation. In turn, this can make wrinkles, acne, and other skin concerns more noticeable.
If you have oily or acne-prone skin, Dr. Gonzalez and Dr. Rabach recommend exfoliating anywhere from two to three times a week. Some people with oily skin may be able to tolerate more frequent exfoliation.
Purging is a sign that the product is working and you should continue with the treatment as prescribed. After a few weeks of purging, your skin and acne will have noticeably improved. Breaking out is when your skin is reacting because it is sensitive to something in the new product.
Sudden acne breakouts can be because of numerous reasons, including hormonal changes or hormonal imbalance, an unhealthy diet including lots of deep fried and junk food, release of cortisol hormones because of excessive stress, excessive production of sebum and much more.
However you choose to exfoliate, doing so more than is necessary could cause long-lasting damage. Pamela says: "If you are exfoliating the skin too often, the skin's barrier function can become compromised, skin can become dehydrated and capillaries can become damaged. It can ultimately make acne worse." Eesh.
For example, Palm warns against using an exfoliant more than once per week for folks with a balanced skin type (and recommends using only physical exfoliants that have a very fine and gentle texture). Those who have combination or oily skin can exfoliate “up to three times weekly,” according to Marchbein.
Exfoliation won't get rid of the scars completely, but they can make a difference with mild acne scarring, by means of resurfacing the skin. "If you're noticing a difference in texture due to acne scarring, using an exfoliant twice a week at home may help as it sloughs off the dead skin cells," says Kate.
When you have flaky, dry skin you need to moisturize, not exfoliate.” Damage from over-exfoliation can present in many ways, including tightness, shininess, stinging, redness and increased sensitivity, Hirsch said. “We tend to grossly overestimate what our skin can handle.”
Acids - The most common acids that can cause skin purging are AHA's and BHA's, which include salicylic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, and mandelic acid.
Skin purging typically looks like tiny red bumps on the skin that are painful to touch. They are often accompanied by whiteheads or blackheads. It can also cause your skin to become flaky. The flare ups caused by purging have a shorter lifespan than a breakout.
"Over-exfoliating can cause chronic skin irritation and inflammation, which can lead to accelerated aging," dermatologist Elizabeth Tanzi added. If you have been exfoliating every day, but notice that your skin gets inflamed afterward, know that could lead to wrinkles.
Overdoing exfoliation, or mixing different physically-based with chemical exfoliants can cause over-exfoliation, leaving your skin sore, bruised, red and irritated. Signs of over-exfoliation include excessive smoothness and shine of your skin, redness, peeling and flaking, and sometimes even an acne inflammation.
After four to six weeks, you should hopefully start to see signs of your skin improving. The symptoms of over-exfoliation should begin to die down, and your skin will slowly take on a healthier and brighter appearance. At this point, you can start to consider introducing exfoliation back into your skin care routine.
What does hormonal acne look like? Whiteheads, blackheads, papules, pustules, cysts and nodules are all common hormonal acne symptoms. Normally, whiteheads and blackheads do not cause pain, inflammation or swelling, but if they do, then they are most likely forming into cysts and pustules.