Consistent use of well-formulated BHA exfoliants (AHAs are not effective for milia, as they cannot reach the pore) should help prevent its recurrence, but in some instances your milia will return. If that happens, management with a dermatologist/skilled aestheticitian is often the best course of action.
“Chemical exfoliation removes dead skin cells with retinol or alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic or glycolic acid.” Chemical exfoliators can also be a godsend for preventing new milia from forming.
Dr Meder's tips for treating milia at home
Look for exfoliating cleansers that contain salicylic acid, lactic acid, or glycolic acid. Chemical exfoliants containing AHAs and BHAs, including glycolic and salicylic acid, provide accelerated, chemical exfoliation without the need to aggressively scrub your skin.
Glycolic acid. Here's why: Glycolic acid is one of the most effective and efficient ingredients to use for exfoliating skin. Its tiny Alpha Hydroxy Acid molecules penetrate and dissolve the outermost (and usually most damaged) layer of skin cells.
If you've already been using facial peels as part of your skin care routine, it's probably safe to continue doing so. It might even help clear up milia. If you can, stick to peels that have salicylic acid or glycolic acid . If you're new to facial peels, don't use them just to get rid of milia bumps.
Products that boost exfoliation and cell turnover keep the skin smooth and thin, thereby eradicating milia and preventing them from recurring. I highly recommend Skinceuticals Micro-Exfoliating Scrub, which is gentle enough to use daily without leaving the skin overly dry or irritated.
Adolescents and adults might be concerned about what milia do to their appearance. In these cases, there are ways that a doctor can remove them. These include medical therapies such as regular application of adapalene gel which is over the counter or tretinoin cream which is a prescription.
Tips for Improving the Appearance of Delicate Eye Area Skin
You'll also want to look for a hydrating blend of moisturizing ingredients such as jojoba esters and niacinamide. Milia may be made more obvious by dark or puffy under eye circles.
The most common procedure for milia removal is de-roofing. Dermatologists use a sterile needle to remove the tiny flap of skin trapping the keratin flake inside the pore. They then squeeze or prick out the flake. A less-common practice is curettage, which is a form of electrosurgery.
“If you're an adult with milia, you might try an over-the-counter exfoliating treatment that contains salicylic acid, alpha hydroxyl acid or a retinoid such as adapalene,” Dr. Piliang says. “These can improve the skin's natural turnover by removing the dead cells, and may help the bumps go away faster.”
Consistent use of well-formulated BHA exfoliants (AHAs are not effective for milia, as they cannot reach the pore) should help prevent its recurrence, but in some instances your milia will return. If that happens, management with a dermatologist/skilled aestheticitian is often the best course of action.
But first, know that milia are not like a pimple that appears and goes away in a few days. They don't usually go away on their own. And you can't pop it like you would a pimple. Milia removal usually requires an incision.
If you typically have milia around your eyes, then that eye cream you're using might be too heavy for your skin type. Choose serums instead since they penetrate deep into the skin without blocking the pores. Or if you are bent on using cream, use products with Hyaluronic acid that is gentle on this delicate area.
Regular exfoliation removes dead skin cells and helps prevent milia. Instead of using a face scrub or harsh chemical peeling product, use a skincare product that contains L-ascorbic acid, the most active and potent form of vitamin C.
Milia are harmless and, in most cases, they will eventually clear by themselves. In babies, they clear after a few weeks. However, in some people, milia can persist for months or sometimes longer. Secondary milia are sometimes permanent.
Topical retinoids help exfoliate the skin more effectively than OTC products. Topical retinoids also help loosen the keratin plug in existing milia and help them come to the surface so they can go away.
Causes and Risk Factors of Milia
Milia happen when the dead skin cells don't slough away. Instead, they get caught under the new skin, harden, and form a milium. Milia can also happen because of: Skin damage from something like a rash, an injury, or sun exposure.
The AHA has been better for closed comedones for me--it works better for removing dead surface skin while the BHA is better at getting stuff out of open pores. But a combination of both the AHA and BHA has made the biggest difference. 1 of 1 found this helpful.
Regular exfoliation with an alpha hydroxy acid (like glycolic or lactic acids) will help clear out dead skin cells, and salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid) will help tone down your oil production. In combination, like in this peel from The Ordinary, they can help keep milia in check.
Vitamin C is also effective in treating comedonal acne, specifically blackheads. By functioning as an antioxidant, vitamin C decreases the number of visible blackheads by reducing sebum oxidation (which causes the dark color of a blackhead).
Stock up on sunscreen
Sun damage can cause milia, so develop a skincare routine that protects against sun exposure. The sun's rays are responsible for up to 80% of external skin damage 1, so to prevent milia, sunscreen should be at the top of your list.
If you've got milia that won't seem to go away, Dr. Thompson suggested exfoliating regularly with a peel or treating them cosmetically with a topical retinoid (such as tretinoin or adapalene) for several weeks. Alternatively, a dermatologist can help.
This involves piercing the upper layer of the skin with a surgical blade or needle, and the milia are expressed out using a comedome extractor. Other treatment options for milia seed removal involves electrosurgery and laser surgery, but usually the least traumatic and simplest way is all you need.
Estheticians can only perform cosmetic procedures that work on superficial layers of the skin. And, although regulations vary, in most states estheticians cannot remove milia (those pesky little white bumps). To remove milia, the skin needs to be pierced with a sharp instrument called a lancet.
Marchbein also adds that if you're someone who is prone to milia, you should try using a combination of oil-free, non-comedogenic products (looking at you, CeraVe and Cetaphil), along with a cream containing a retinoid. This one by Paula's Choice absorbs quickly and also goes to work on fine lines and dark spots.